Leaving Spain

Well, today is day 50 of my Camino trip.

I had high expectations before leaving for Spain and walking Camino, but I was not prepared for the depth this would go.  I made friends, some casual, but a few with very tight bonds.  I bought t-shirts, got carried away, but I bought them :).

I learned many be Spanish words and learned that trying to properly pronounced a Spanish word almost always gets help and smiles.  More then one conversation was me attempting Spanish as they attempted English - they were almost universally better at English then I was at Spanish.  I also learned that English is the universal language, everyone migrates to English in mixed languages (not an excuse to learn another language).

I learned how tiny this world really is and while we are different, we are more alike then not.  I met people from over 30 countries and in doing so, experienced firsthand how much we are similar and how little we are different.

I learned that I have the drive and commitment to chase and accomplish my dreams.  Millions upon millions of people have walked Camino over the centuries, and for conveinence, today's modern world grants many conveinences to Peregrinos (modern albergues, supermarkedos, technology, etc.), but the trail largely remains the same trail and is no less physically demanding then earlier Peregrinos experienced.  Walking 800km+ (500+ miles) is absolutely doable and can be quite enjoyable, you just do it one step at a time and don't be afraid to call upon other Peregrinos for support and provide support for other Peregrinos.

Most importantly, I learned you have to let Camino happen.  Don't overly plan things, allow yourself to flow WITH the Camino and doing try to fight the natural flow.  Peregrinos who has aggressive schedules and many days planned did not allow themselves to reply get immersed into the Camino.  As much fun as it is to meet new friends, if the places doing match, don't fight it, another Peregrino is around the corner who matches your pace better.  You can always catch up at the end of the day, or at least the next big city.

I could go on and on about all the thingsi learned and experienced, I think it is best summed up with this was a life changing event.  This isn't like going to see your favorite band in concert, this goes way war deeper, like getting married or having a child.

If reading the blog has inspired anyone, I wholeheartedly endorse the journey, just remember to allow it to happen, don't force it.  Oh, and crocks or sandles is very Peregrino fashion!

Ultreia!
Kevin

Back to Santiago

Mission accomplished in Muxia, and not much else going on there, I bussed my way back to Santiago.
Back into the minibus from Muxia to Cee.
Another minibus along the coast to who knows where, we just pull up in a yard "swap to other bus"...
A monster double decker bus, headed to Santiago.
Get to Santiago and take city bus to Placa de Galacia.

Whole journey, €15.50!  That won't get you cross town in the States, and I got a large tour of the Galacian coastline.

Back in Santiago, finally visit the toothpick tapas place I heard so much about...  The word was all good and so want the food!

The rest of the day, just errands and tending to business (like laundry at the pilgrim house).  Speaking of which, time to go retrieve my laundry, dressed in my finest Peregrino clothes
Baselayer pants (might as well call them long underwear)
Shorts
Tech shirt
Fleece jacket
And crocks!
Nothing says Peregrino more then crocks or sandles.
I would feel out of place, but so many others dressed similarly.

A real quiet day.

Ultreia!
Kevin

My last commitment as Peregrino

After a smart choice to crash in Finisterre for the weekend, I bussed it out to Muxia (no, I didn't bustit out) and arrived to s much rain as Finisterre had, plus plenty of gusting wind!

Quickly picking a place to stay I landed at the SWEET albergue, it has only been open two months.  The beds are pod like with curtains and stairs instead of ladders AND power ports for each bed.  Wrapping up the sweetness, shelves in the bed area and numbered lockers near the bed that actually FIT a backpack!  Ooh, and the doors are all suspended glass doors, many open with electric eye at least on one side and a switch on the other (switches are in the hallways, so you don't walk down the hall and open every door).  The lights are customary motion sensed, but these actually seem to work right.  Large modern stainless steel kitchen...  AND a first for me, a dedicated cleaning lady!  She was even wiping down the railings and making sure everything in the kitchen was properly clean before putting it away!  SCORE!  All the staff here are very knowledgeable and friendly.  It made hanging around the albergue a very pleasant experience.

So, the time came to walk down in the very gusting wind to the Muxia point and let it belt.  Found a sweet spot behind a large rock that sheltered from the worst of the wind and let it rip!  It felt really good to complete the last of my mission.  Of course, only a complete psycho Peregrino walks to a church on a point only to belt out over the ocean...  Ooh, you should have received it around 2:39, give or take a bit! (Early reports that is WAS heard, even in Atlanta!). Came back to the albergue and just socialized with the other Peregrinos and made a few friends.

6:30 I headed down to the ugly metal thing on the waterfront (I assume it is a framework for grapevines to create an arbor of sorts) to meet some friends who wanted to get together for dinner...  No shows, well a cat did, but he wasn't happy about all the wind and stayed under the tree for the most part.

Not relishing the thought of dining in the local establishments I was kinda relieved when no one showed, so of you the local supermarkedo I went.  Perusing the isles I found NACHO CHIPS, yes, seriously, I actually found them AND salsa!  Around the corner Tabasco sauce (which is consecrated HOT in Spain).  A quick trip to the helpful deli and I had nacho fixings!

Back at the albergue they turned out really good, sharing them with friends, were destroyed the nachos!  Passing around a bottle of cream orujo just made things sweet.

The lesson here, let Camino happen and it will provide!

Tomorrow, I take the bus back to Santiago and start prepping for my return home Thursday.  I still rang to visit the bar where you buy tapas cafeteria style and pay by the toothpick, sounds like fun.

So, check out this :
"Ultreia is another pilgrim salute, like the more popular 'Buen Camino!'. While 'Buen Camino' literally means 'have a good journey, a good Camino', the meaning of 'Ultreia!' goes a bit deeper, implying encouragement to keep going, reaching 'beyond', heading onwards.".  It seems very appropriate, more so as my foot travel journey is wrapped up.

ULTREIA!
Kevin

WHOO-HOOO Belted Out!

The shout should arrive around 2:39pm EST ☺

https://goo.gl/photos/zDj9od8SeSXKfTdR7

Chilling

Today is the first time in the whole Camino that I spend two nights in the same place :)!  I decided to camp out in Finisterre for the day and say farewell to Alabama when her tour came thru.

I headed into town for a breakfast then into the waterfront area to scope out anything exciting...  I swear, they have hidden cameras on me ("Pedro accidentally shot off fireworks, but he though we were celebrating his entrance to town, we must do it again! ", " he looked the parade, get some more scheduled quickly! ", and "he liked the marathon in Burgos, three more times should do nicely!") Cause I think the conversation went something like this ("Shit!  He's in town, do something....  No fireworks handy...  All the bands are elsewhere, well get a road race scheduled... Yes yes yes, all the way to the lighthouse and back, no no no, tomorrow morning....  Yes, of they won't die in the race, make them run!").  At any rate, there it was, another road race and quite amusing to boot.  It went up and back down about as quick as the the weekly markets I always seen to hit as well.

So, I sauntered around town and decided to saunter up the hill to the lighthouse, following the race route with much amusement...  These poor people, hugging and puffing, panting and wheezing, probably should not have ran up and back down a hill.  I reached the summit to find it very pleasantly peaceful.

I had another first also while there, it was bound to happen sometime, might as well be Finisterre - Coin operated toilet paper dispensers!  Yep, €.20 for 1 meter of paper...  Guess they didn't count on this Peregrino coming prepared!  Destruction complete, I moved around the peninsula to see what I missed the night before.  Finding a comfy place to sit, I discovered a clearing in the clouds, due west...  HOME!  Honestly, I choked up for a second out two but then started thinking, add I looked out over there ocean - the ocean that reveals the roundness of the horizon and gives scale to the earth...  I was home.  In the future, should we master space travel, earth as a whole will be h
Pome...  Comforted with that thought I settled into a long comfortable quiet time where I just pondered and thought and came up with : my WHOO-HOOO's should get to Portland Maine in ~236 minutes from the time I yell in Finisterre!

An hour later. I started to hear the chatter of people..  THE BUSES WERE ARRIVING!  I located myself in a nice high spot where I could spot Alabama when she arrived...  You know, when someone on a high spot spots out "ALABAMA!!!" REALLY REALLY LOUD everyone stops!  They soon realized it was a reunion of friends and someone actually took a picture they were that moved.

When it came time for them to depart on the bus we discovered they had another two hours in town for lunch!

I was 1km into a 2.2km descent, everyone jumping out of my way, before the bus overtook me. As a marter of fact, I made it to their restaurant just after they ordered...  Seafood, I didn't partake!

What a great time we had just chatting, like Camino brother and sister.  She even got to such her feet into the Atlantic as part of one of the many traditions.

I wasn't walking trails but my Camino was really back on!  When I went for supper I even bumped into some English and Canadian friends.  Dinner took 3 hours, buy we had fun!

Tomorrow, I leave my mark on Muxia, the shout of shouts and WHOO-HOOO of
WHOO-HOOO's will be belted out, listen back at home for it :)!

PHOTO DUMP :
(Think I fixed the photo link)
https://goo.gl/photos/VHogb88Qj7FtD39G7

Tonight's signoff is a little different!

Ultreia!
Kevin

Struggling

So, recall earlier that I said plans were subject to change...

I left this morning and started out of town not feeling it at all.  I was walking mechanically, but that was all, no heart in it or any desire at all.  I promised myself you finish the days stage and reassess.  Well, I finished the days stage and found myself wondering why I way beating myself over the head on this, I obviously was not enjoying the walking as I had previously, I had my Camino back on for a while yesterday, but it stalled out again.

I decided, much like forest gump being tired of running, i was tired of walking.  I bussed it into Finisterre and along the way discovered I had some people here I knew.  I quickly hooked up with them, destroyed a pizza, and headed to meet then at the Finisterre lighthouse to watch the sunset...

Only it started raining as I made the ascent....  The crazy Peregrino, almost jogging up the slope, walking in the rain...   Hey, I had my pack, I had my gear - I was prepared!

When I got there, just add I got to the lighthouse, the skies opened up and the rain poured down and the wind blew!  Everyone was ruining for cover...  Well, almost everyone...  There was ONE crazy Peregrino walking around talking in the sights!  Funny, I finally went into the museum to look at the actual displays and it was full of people huddling...  Strange people...
They even got out of my way, one would think they were fearful of someone walking around in the pouring rain and bit bothered at all by it!
The clincher was "The last stamp"!  Pulling out my Peregrino passport and paying €.50 for the last stamp (OK, that is actually pretty cheap of then to do that, but still).  Apparently I was the only one in there on real business.

Business finished, I headed back out in a temporary lull in the rain (and I mean temporary), I still had unfinished business to attend to!  Climbing the stairs over onto the cliff overlook and positioning myself properly, I introduced myself to everyone else!
"WHOOOOOOOOOO-HOOOOOOOOOOOO"!!!!  I actually got applause from a group huddled under a pile of umbrellas.  I belted it out back home, you should be hearing it soon, right around 7:30pm, and a second one around 8:00.  I figure it might take 6 ish hours to get there give or take!
Ooh, my friends there heard me loud and clear during the deluge!  The knew I was there, no one else is crazy enough :).

Just as the sun set it cleared up a bit and I reconnected with my friends.  We then walked the 3+ km back to town in the increasing darkness and upon arriving we emptied out packs of excess food and had a Peregrino celebration.

So, what is next?!  Dunno!  I could walk to Muxia in two 15km days..
I could hang in town and wait for Alabama to arrive in the bus and give her a proper goodbye..
I could play and win the Spanish lottery.

My only commitment is to go home on Thursday

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/4HJ6DLTc9rzfqfks7

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Back on the trail

Smarting from the emotional impact of the Camino family parting ways, I still had to get out and finish my walking journey to Finisterre and Muxia.  Walking out of Santiago was a double edged sword - i  was leaving some friends behind who would be in the city for a few more days, but the noise of the city was starting to get to me.

Back on the trail it was quiet!  Very quiet, but that was probably a good thing.  I needed time to mentally process my emotions and check myself - I always knew my walk to Finisterre and Muxia would be different then my walk into Santiago.  I had some down feelings thru the early morning, nothing unexpected given the tight bonds you make on Camino.

I was still struggling to get my Camino back on when I hit a hill...   For the first half I struggled and just did not have it in me, I swore if there was a bench I would sit and convert the land into shorts...  There it was, around the corner.

As I was pulling off my sleeved shirts and unzipping the legs of my pants, two bikers, whom I had passed earlier going up the hill went by.  The giggle as they walked their bikes up past me and said with glee "Buen Camino" got me energized.  These guys are short haulers, I'm going to show them howa long hauler climbs hills! - Camino Back On!  I caught up with them quickly and it was funny, they were huffing and puffing trying to keep ahead of me.     HAHAHAHA!  "BUEN CAMINO again guys, see you over the top!" - Zoom!  As I pulled away surrounding up the hill I heard then mutter something in Spanish to the effect of Superman...  I was half way down the other side when I heard a giggling "Buen Camino" as they FINALLY overtook me...

Ooh Yeah!  I was getting my Camino back into gear!

The rest of the days walk was much better, arriving at my albergue to an empty house...  I rocked my Camino so bad the second part of my walk, receive was BEHIND me - they caught up eventually :)!

Starting to get myself out of my depression, I searched out the local supermarkedo - this one was respectible in size.  I wanted to get something for snack tonight and trail munchies for tomorrow...  Then it clicked, Sunday night munchies...
No cheddar cheese in this country, but a piece of Spanish cheese will do.
No onion crackers, plain crackers will do.
Gawd! No pepperoni...  I don't want chorizo, but that is what this country has.
No dill pickles, little nibblers will suffice.
Mustard, check (yellow mustard is yellow mustard)
Sunday night munchies, Spanish style!  Check!  So many compliments :).

So here I am at the end of my 42nd day on Camino.  38 days walking, 4 "rest" days.  Depending on which resource you reference you'll get a different answer, but the most reliable says I've walked about 822km so far.  I have just about 100km to go, 5 days to do it in, and one very very loud "WHOOOOO-HOOOOO" to deliver over the ocean!

Till tomorrow:).

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/GmnBF7VnVp4UMKrMA

BUEN CAMINO!
Kevin

Never say goodbye!

What a powerful day this turned out to be!

Many of the family in town, for one reason or another, are not walking to Finisterre or Muxia. So they took a guided tour that took the better part of a full day.  I, walking it as I type, did not want to ruin my arrival by touring it ahead, stayed behind and found more then enough to keep me going ALL day!

After seeing them off, I went back to my hotel and finished my blog for the Tuesday arrival, 2 days later :)!  By then, the pilgrim house had opened, so I headed over to do a load of laundry and pick their brains on many items (where to eat, where to rest, schedules, etc).

Loaded with information, I then headed to a "Chinese junk store"...  By the way, THESE are the places to go to get what you need.  Like a big-lots, Mardin's, family dollar, and dollar tree all wrapped up in one store.  I found a heavy duty duffel bag that my pack will fit in for the flight home, it is also serving double duty as a pack forward bag so I can offload everything for the days walk that I don't need.

My next stop, aptly timed, was to greet my Camino sister "Alabama" in the square...  Ooh, I gave her the grand Kevin style entrance!
"AL-LA-BAM-A!!!!" At the top of my lungs as we walked towards each other.
I have her a great big hug and let it rip!
"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!", to which she matched in duration and volume! - We were the only sound in the square for a while and we were given quite a berth by the tourists!
Like family reunions, Camino family reunions are emotionally powerful, and we both share the same level of excitement and energy (That is why she is my Camino sister and not just Camino family!)...  It's not like we spent a whole heck of time together, we didn't, I don't think the Camino could handle it!   But the times we were together, we so totally rocked the time, it didn't matter, we left the area impacted by our presence and the square in front of the church was totally ours during our reunion!  The hundreds of others suddenly felt awkward cause our energy dominated as we introduced ourselves to each others Camino families.

Happy I got to great my Camino sister properly, I went in search of food.  No bloody Peregrino menu or Menu del Day, I wanted FOOD!  Chasing down a suggestion from the pilgrim house, I located Resas Restaurante, fusion cooking with Oriental, Mexican, and American influence.  Down some winding dark street, way off the Peregrino traveled paths I located it.  In typical fashion I just walked in, quickly got acknowledged, sat and introduced (wonder if word spread!).  A quick social chat and I settled on some light snacks, nachos with homemade chili and a Vietnamese spring roll - both surprisingly awesome and  CHEAP!  Topped off the meal with homemade carbonated lemonade with mint and i was a happy Peregrino!  Asked about accommodating a larger group for supper, and they graciously gave me a card with the number to call :).

Armed with this knowledge, I retrieved my clean clothes, changed and gave them the remainder of the dirty laundry and set it to check into that nights lodging - A friggen sweet apartment in very modern style! - check the pictures in the link below :).  Then I let the group on your know I had their place for the evening, did a few more errands and headed to the pilgrim house for a Peregrino meetup.

For potential Peregrinos, the pilgrim house in Santiago is an AWESOME place.  Like an albergue without beds and an information center all wrapped up into one.  I attended their pilgrim meetup sand had a blast taking with other Peregrinos and just listening to their stories...  Ooh, and snacking on chocolate.

Reconnecting with the Camino family we went out for dinner at my lunch stop - no-one was disappointed.  But that dinner did start the inevitable string of "goodbyes"!  I kept reminding people it's "till we meet again!".  It's always sad parting with friends after a journey, but the hardest was yet to come.

We retired to the little bar that we used on our arrival - the bartender smiling when seeing us with a larger group.  For a while we had lots of merriment, but eventually it came to parting...  The first of two hard partings was saying "Till we meet the next time!" to Nancy, our spiritual advisor and Camino Mom!...  Never saying goodbye, it was still rough on all of us and more then a few tears were shed.  Then one-by-one
more separations happened as we all retired to our respective lodging for the night.

I thought Camino Ray (Camino Dad) and I were going to have a less emotional parting...  Until we actually parted ways this morning...  Very rough on the both of us.  I know we will see each other in the future, but THIS parting was rough, part of the Camino Magic ceased with the partings, mostly with Camino Mom and Dad.

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/nHo2Z2gWjq6pndpt8

BUEN CAMINO!
Kevin

The Santiago Occupation!

We sleep!  We slept so late, we almost didn't make the 10:30 English mass (the one and only mass in English on the whole Camino)...  It was beautiful, the priest spoke mainly French, bit did English confessions, and got coerced into doing the Wednesday English masses...  He spoke perfect English...  He also talked about how harsh the bible was (holy-shit, this guy is a real human!) but stated it was the inner heart that the harsh stories tried to teach you about...  Never liking Catholic masses, I loved his sermon - a teaching that was about real values and not a lot of blind bible thumping!  This guy "got-it!" he understood people and we understood him...  I am honestly say, peel the ritualistic ceremony away, and I could really listen to his sermons :).  I later, in true Peregrino fashion, went to confession (same preacher) and considered my pilgrimage officially complete as they no longer do clothes burning :).

Speaking of burning clothes We did the church roof tour.  Yep, me, Mr-doesn't-like-heights, got up on the cathedral roof!  Walked the whole perimeter and stood on each peak and took in the views!!!  Up, on the bell tower is a dot that leads to a rooftop confessional and on the back peak of the roof, an old burning pit for Peregrino clothes.  A most exciting adventure that was:)

Later, we just crashed in our hotel room - Ray and I staying awake for hours filling in the missing times from the times we were separated....  We both felt like kids, but we weren't going to go to sleep without catching up :)!

PHOTO DUMP :

https://goo.gl/photos/QeQMz3f56YnX9eE69

BUEN CAMINO!

Kevin

SANTIAGO!!!

Pat, what has happened over the last few days.

WOW!  What a journey (more walking to come :) )

So, back to Tuesday: As many other Peregrinos did, we woke early and hit the trail in the dark.  The woods we walked thru night have been spooky in the dark had it bit been for the steady Peregrino train matching onwards to Santiago.  A line so big, we more or less completely lit the trail like a highway at night.

Marching on, we quickly came to the airport runway end and seeing the first signs of population ahead, I let out a practice "WHOO-HOOO!" - just a practice one mind you :).  After that, the trail dove back into a forest and some farmland - It was about there that I muttered to Ray "You know, I am tired of walking" - and I was, at the moment I had reached my full capacity of walking...

Kilometers later, we started entering the outskirts of the metropolitan area and with that, my pace turned from a dragging stroll to almost a breakneck jog.  I was headed to the Peregrino monument to get my first look at Santiago!  Just before turning off the road near the ugly monument, I stopped and allowed my Camino family to catch up...  Funny, their place was likewise quick and we were all together within minutes.  A quick beverage, cello stamp, and across to the monument.  We enjoyed a nice solemn moment guided by Nancy then headed to the monument and communion of sport jelly beans.  Then we walked to the overlook for a group "WHOO-HOOO!" and what a "WHOO-HOOO!" It was, all our voices belting out an advance warning to the city, we are coming!  Not content with just one warning, I later let out another "WHOO-HOOO!", only followed with "I'M COMING TO TOWN!!!" properly forewarning the city of my imminent arrival!

Funny, with a good and proper announcement, I no longer felt quite as rushed, still rushed, just at as rushed!  We descended the hill and crossing the bridge over the interstate, I couldn't help it "WHOO-HOOO!  I'M HERE!" - I also wondered if all the cars were leaving the city cause I was coming ;) - wonder how they got clued-in :D!

The walk thru the city was nice, got quieter as we approached, taking a break to reflect and indulge in chocolate bits before the invasion of Santiago commenced! - This town was never going to be the same after my Camino family and I arrived!  We didn't even pause at the tunnel into the square, charging in we all made our way quickly to the square center and it happened, largely with thought...

3 1/2 years of planning, physical preparation, mental preparation, spiritual and emotional preparation.  The sacrifices of family and friends, the guidance of so many the cumulation of so much effort...  It just happened, out out came "WWWHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO-HHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!"....  The square has really nice acoustics and I do believe the whole city heard...  The smile was from ear to ear, the joy immeasurable, the emotions just pouring out!  I quickly gathered myself enough to call my wife and blurt out " I made it!  I friggen MADE IT!...' (I had the foresight to pull the phone away from my face!) "WWWHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO-HHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!".  I am man enough to admit, the emotional high was so strong, I started tearing up on the phone!  I have heard people talk about the anti-climax of arriving in Santiago, I did not experience that in the least!  I set out on a mission and dammit, as many obstacles were thrown at me, I made it.  I almost felt like I was mentally embraced upon entering the square.

We gathered ourselves, found a nearby Italian restaurant and took over the 3rd floor near the kitchen!  Destroying a delicious meal we then made for the pilgrim office and while waiting on line discovered the one of the volunteers "Dave" lives only 90 minutes away and write possibly will join the Portland APOC Peregrino walk in a few weeks - it made the time in line fly while waiting :).  Getting my Compostela certificate was awesome and a special acknowledgement from the staff for walking the whole distance (you only have to walk the last 100km to get your Compostela certificate).

Starting to slightly settle in, we headed to the nights lodging (an attic apartment on the 5th floor over a bar) to shower and regroup for the nights activities.

We were gathered enough to attend the 7:30 mass (in Spanish) and watch the Botafumeiro swing (normally only on Fridays at noon) :)!  I also embraced the statue of saint James and went down to see and pray at the crypt of the apostle saint James

Later, we gathered for a dinner then headed to our "loft" for a Peregrino party...  The bar portion was closing and non-guests couldn't be in there after, so we partied outside on the sidewalk...  Did I mention the bar is directly across the street from the police station???  No?  Well that is probably because they fully ignored us :D!  Properly destroying a full bottle of cream orujo in 2 minutes flat many were amazed at "warm" they felt :).  A few had to head back to their hotels as they were flying out the next day, the rest of us hit an open bar...  Ooh my, I love Spain!  Order a drink, get a tapas!  (NO!  I did not get drunk, not even close!  I knew I had 4 flights of stairs to climb and was not content with snoozing in the 1st floor bar :) ).  We headed back around 11:30 (super late for a peregrino!), some made it to 1am...

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/w4EUGAFmpw9JsNkX8

BUEN CAMINO!
Kevin

I MADE IT

I'M HERE!!!  I MADE IT!!!!!

WHOOOOOOOOOOO-HOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

T - 1 Day, full of energy!

This morning we just flew down the trail.  The first hill, I just distanced myself from the pack and kept the speed up all day long, hammering out 24km (with breaks, ooh yeah huevos con bacon and zumo naranja!) in 5 1/2 hours and energy to spare.  I was checked into our albergue, unpacked, showered, dressed, and ready to head out and search for food when the rest of my party joined me :). - I ROCKED the Camino today!

From the pictures, walking thru an eucalyptus forest .  Also, there is a major highway under construction, interesting to note that the Camino infrastructure is the very first completed, long before anything else...  The Camino is that important in Spain!  You have also seen pictures of Peregrino rest areas, much like on highways, complete with km to go to the next rest area.  Walking the Camino carries a lot of respect, and it is shown every day to Peregrinos.

Speaking of which, several other routes haber merged lately, the Camino is officially a Peregrino superhighway now.  More people walking then cars on the roads by a wide margin.

Tomorrow is it, the big day!  The cumulation of years of planning and anticipation and 818km of Camino walked.  Tomorrow, I expect to arrive in Santiago around 1:30 in the afternoon...  It will never be the same again, neither will I.  The pent-up emotional energy will find a very auditory release along with several other forms of release, which will probably carry on all day long.  I might just get a bottle of cream de orujo and let the Camino family consume at will...  I kind got them hooked, by accident, but they found they really really like it.

Tonight at the albergue, the energy is just pouring out of people in eager anticipation of the cumulation of so many people's efforts over the past few weeks.  Kind of like a pre-party if you will, without the alcohol - no-one is risking their last day walking for anything.

So, that is pretty much it for today, tomorrow is the day.  Just a heads up, doing be surprised if a blog entry is missing tomorrow, when I get to Santiago, I will celebrate until I run out of energy!

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/kMr3QFYXkVZC4D4f8

Buen Camino!
Kevin

T - 2 days to Santiago!

Well, we have cleared the 40km marker, which puts us at about 44km really to go (reminder, markers are old, Camino path has changed).  Tomorrow's walk puts us ~22km from Santiago and a very energetic conclusion to 818km and 39 days of walking.  I have every intention of celebrating and letting my "WHOO-HOOO!" be belted out in the main square, announcing my arrival to all my friends in town.

My energy levels are really high, even after finishing the days walk.  Speaking of which, the paths in Galacia are really beautiful, crowded, but beautiful.  So, our albergue is at the top of a hill climb, is motoring so easily up the hill, I part two bikers!  When I first started walking, hills were a bitch, now it's like "whoo-hoo!", hill climbing mode, get out of my way.  The stride lengthens, pace quickens, whistling starts, and I seem to just fly up the hill.  It is a very new sensation to me to be just absolutely flying up a hill when that very obstacle should be a consistent challenge

Anyways, I came out to Camino to embrace the whole Camino experience and I got it and a whole heck more.  I'm walking 20-30 km each day and when the walking part of the day is ever, I'm still very active.  The whole experience has helped me grow healthier mentally, spiritually, physically, emotionally, and in too many other ways to count.

Being on the final approach to Santiagoi have been reflecting on the journey that started almost 3 1/2 years ago.  What started as a calling and grew to a shouting and inspired me to walk ~774 km to where I am now.  But the pilgrimage really started when I decided to makes the journey and all the associated mental, physical, spiritual, and emotional prep.  The sacrifices of many, particularly my family, but also of friends, coworkers, my gym friends, and the numerous others who supported this journey.  This whole pilgrimage has taken a life of its own and given me far more then I could have anticipated before I started.  I also realize that there are so many aspects of my journey that I don't want to fizzle out when I leave Spain, like community and compassion for your fellow man.  I have also been admired for "living life out loud:)"

I'm not saying everyone else will get the same experience, actually everyone else's will be different.  A lot of what you get out of it is weekday you bring to it and his much you open yourself to letting the journey exposed you to new things, new people, CV and how you react to challenges on Camino.

Anyways, once again, is late.  Going to go to bed and rock this Camino again tomorrow!

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/oWrTUNr4DoCwobR78

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Day 36! - The fellowship is reunited!

So i had to end early yesterday due to limited Wi-Fi availability.  Shortly after sending out the blog, I saw the distinct outline of my friends walking up the hill in the distance.  My now very familiar "WHOO-HOOO!" Left NO mistake who was at the top of the hill...  A return flapping of the poles left no mistake my friends were on their way and received my message!  Joyous hugs and we were reunited back as a Camino family, ready to tackle whatever the Camino delivers - together.

Reunited, we seemed to walk slower then normal, taking close to 7 hours to cover 23km (should have taken us under 6, and that is with breaks)...  We were just sauntering and catching up on each other's Camino adventures.  We arrived at a pretty sweet little Albergue in Ponte Campaña - “Casa Domingo“.  Almost everything is hand crafted, the furniture and even the bunk beds (ROCK SOLID).  We had a wonderful communal meal served family style.  First course was Galacian soup and Lentel soup.  That was followed by salad and Spanish omelette.  Third course was Fettuccini and meatballs in sauce.  Dessert was Galacian cake and ice cream.  Of course, this was served with bread, water, and wine.  The mean and experience were both awesome.  We even gave the husband (bartender and server) and wife (also the cook) an ovation much to their embarrassment and delight.

Tonight we also planned and reserved our next several days - We enter Santiago Tuesday morning!  Santiago is less a destination then the symbolic end of the walking part of the journey.  I do have plans to journey on a few more days to Finisterre and then to Muxia where I plan to expel any negativity equity a good and loud primal roar, followed by an even louder "WHOO-HOOO!" Which I will direct back to my home, listen for it :)

This Camino journey has been such a big piece of my existence for so long in planning and the execution, while only in a few weeks, has seemed like much longer.  The is so much I have learned, discovered, and experienced that I feel like Camino is less something I walked and more something I allowed myself to become.

The next two days are expected to be rainy, wonder how that will affect my spirits as I make the last legs of my journey to Santiago :).

PHOTO DUMP:
https://goo.gl/photos/YtK2VoPCDkx3RpeY8

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Five weeks walking!

Today, a very short walking day, marks five weeks that I have been walking on Camino .  Now that I see the end of my journey on the horizon, I find myself starting to reflect on this journey and how it has woken parts of me I thought long since gone.

Here on Camino, I have a level of confidence I never thought I could have.  I feel a lot more connected to myself and I feel a lot more primal energy flowing thru my veins.  I don't question if I'm an outsider, I just enter the damn bar and sit, not that anyone is going to cause trouble anyways.  I also feel a lot more connected to humanity, I talk with everyone - language barrier can go take a long really off a short pier, communication can still happen.

So, another meal with strangers this morning.  This time a Spanish bikeagreno with as much English as I had Spanish.  We were able to work out when and where we started, when we expect to finish, our names, and of course nationality.  I may never see him again a he is biking 20km today so he can finish in Santiago tomorrow, but that is not the point.  I made another connection with a human and we shared the common language - LOTS  of pointing and hand gestures and some smiles.

Here is a big hint, TRY to learn a new Spanish word each time you interact and practice it there, they are always happy to help.  A chocolate croissant is actually Napolitano con chocolate.  Beautiful is bonito.  Coffee is cafe American (you should drink the cafe con leche).  Pizza, however is still pizza, but hamburger is hamburgaesa. And on and on.  I always read the next on Spanish first, then read the English to fill in the blanks.

Maybe I will be better positioned to actually learn learn and retain Spanish when I return.  The people here are wonderful and I cannot foresee that this will be my one and only jaunt to this land - I'll just bring my own soap with me, it is a luxury in this land :).  If anything, this adventure has woken my desire to explore more of this world.

Random thought, before I started walking Camino, I had a hard time walking and not being winded.  I've noticed a change in my body and walking, I come to a hill, my stride lengthens and pace quickens some - my body LIKES hills.  Just this morning, walking the hill outside of portomarin, I caught myself whistling a tune and just blowing by people.  I didn't realize this until I heard someone panting like I used to...  Ooh, the steep ones can still be a challenge, but I survived the climb from Hunto to Orisson!  The rest of the Camino is easy by comparison!  This is in stark contrast to my flat ground walking where I seem to drop into a leisurely stroll.  Down hills, WHOO-HOO!  Hey outta my way, I have size 13 boots with two hiking poles for stability and I'm not afraid to use it all.

Anyways, early blog post today.  Casa does not have Wi-Fi and really lousy mobile reception.  Camino Ray and Camino Nancy are inbound and we will once again reunite the Camino family!

Tomorrow we should reconnect with more family so we can march into Santiago together next week.

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/J8vq4Mn3dHYgHjPv7

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Day 34 - The German Invasion!

So my albergue last night was pretty damn empty.  No more then 7 people. Only 2 in dorms, the rest in private rooms.  The gentleman that shared the dorm with me up and left sometime between 9:30pm and 1:00am.  So I had the entire 2nd floor to myself!  Two dorm rooms, bathrooms, and lounge...  ALL MINE, MWAH HAH HAH!!!...  Wait, it's the middle of the night, I'm going back to my bed and going back to sleep...  Well, that feeling lasted about 5 seconds.
Back to bed, I must say, I slept great!  Didn't have to worry about keeping anyone awake snoring - Didn't have to wear earplugs to avoid other snorers!  Camino can treaty you well sometimes...  WAIT!  What is she throwing at me tomorrow!?  Well, no sense worrying about it now...  ZZZZZZZZZZ.......

So, with the latter sunrise and cooler morning temps I allowed myself a later sleep and slower start to the day....
Mistake!  HUGE MISTAKE!  But more about that in a bit.

So I enjoyed breakfast at the albergue and was getting ready to leave when I hear "here come all the pilgrims up the street!"...   Now I did think quickly that I was in the lower part of the street, most Peregrinos should be ahead of me, but there they were!  A mob of Peregrinos!

This mob was more like an invasion, an invasion of 400+ German Touregrenos busing in for the day to walk their leg...  The SAME let as mine!  400 German Touregrenos, yammering the WHOLE friggen time, just stomping all along the Camino and in general just not being very Peregrino like at all - entitled monsters - but not Peregrino like.  It was truelly an invasion, and on a large scale.

So, to make sure I was not over reacting, I queried several long haulers and their reactions pretty much mirrored mine.  Ooh yeah, I also asked about the whole bad ass Peregrino thing, every long hauler I spoke with got the same feeling...  It's funny, cause as Peregrinos, we shouldn't judge others by how far they walk, a Peregrino is a Peregrino (a Touregreno is NOT a Peregrino but a pestilence on the land) and whether you walk 100km, 818km, or 2000+km if you are a true Peregrino you belong.  But that bad-ass attitude really came in handy a few times when maneuvering the few bars on the today's leg.  My last stop was funny, I walked in, plopped my pack against a stone wall and marched into the bar, standing right in the doorway, preventing the invasion from swamping the tiny bar area (most Peregrino bars have outdoor seating, this was no exception!).  Once the bartender cleaned the room, he smiled and asked what I wanted...  I couldn't resist
"Agua
Bottle
Sans cup"
€.50 for me, €1.50 for the yammerheads taking it in a glass....  Yeah, I did it on purpose, but I did want a new bottle for the pack.

Anyways, there were a few sections of peace and quiet, but largely the day was full of yammering although as we approached Portomarina group was singing which I found quite amusing and entertaining.  Ooh, I tried hard not to be a bad Peregrino, I even reached out a few times to some and offered assistance...  Like the girl with poles, attached to her pack going down a steep hill, she was walking in switchbacks. Which was smart, but I pointed to get sticks then mine and said good much easier it was.  I told her my sticks are in my hands if my pack is on my back.  Then I demonstrated how nicely poles help you down hills.

So, I might be thanking the invaders in a few days anyways, see, I am a full days walk ahead of many of my friends whom I wish to walk into Santiago with.  Because of their yammering, I am taking a 1/2 tomorrow to let a few catch up, then another 1/2 day Saturday and we'll be all back together for the big march into Santiago! (Our own invasion of you will).  So tomorrow, I'll sleep in a bit, catch a later breakfast and saunter a short 9km - AFTER the invaders bus back into town and are long gone.

OOH!  I am officially under the 100km mark (the one in the picture is now 106.9km due to path changes and one big airport construction).  I am expecting to arrive in Santiago sometime on Tuesday barring any unforeseen events...  Then...  THEN WE ROCK THAT PLACE!  Satisfy was described to me as a 24/365 Peregrino party...  Then...
Finisterre
Muxia
And time permitting, the Little Fox House!

And in two weeks from now, I'll be heading back home and readjusting back to a more scheduled existence but very happily to be with my family!  Going back to work will be a challenge, not because of the people, cause the big thing Camino made me realize, I love interacting with people!  No, going back I'll be sedentary again...  After walking 20-30km day in and day out, I'm now used to always being on the go and full of energy...  Maybe I'll start plannil nevermindng another pilgrimage, the European Camino network is massive!  Ir why people do this over and over, the existence here is magical.

Anyways, now I'm yammering!  Time to go to bed.

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/m6wtEzP1WHp8GAxZ9

Buen Camino!
Kevin

PS, that bridge, of all the ones I've crossed, was nerve racking.

Sarria day pictures

https://goo.gl/photos/XWG5kmwuZ95MsYS16

SARRIA!

Well, today's walk was a nice walk in the woods.  Partly cloudy, not to hot, not to cold...  Perfect walking weather!  Absolutely hammered out the walk today and it was nice to be back into good walking conditions.  You will see from the pictures that the trails are REALLY with down in spots.  So many beautiful spots to walk in today, GLAD I didn't tackle that during the rain!

Stopped at a random bar and has a really delicious lasagna for lunch - What a way to make a Kevin Happy!

So, entered Sarria...  Again with the bad-ass cowboy feeling, this time in a farmacia and supermarkedo but not in the two outdoors stores (whew!).  Found an acceptable fill-in for my hat and a new rubber boot for my pole.  They will suffice till I get home and get the real things - Happiness!

OOH!  And I found the Italian restaurant that my friends told me about.  Already snacked on bruschetta..  With BACON!  They also have kitties on the window!  So many awesome things in this place...  Speaking of which, church bell in ringing!  SUPPERTIME!!!  I'll be back....

...  Ooh my, my friend Chazzy Chaz Chaz would love this place, they are playing almost exclusively Led Zepplin, and I'm not talking the radio station boring overplayed stuff either, we're talking B-B-side and the under played stuff...

So, there wes a group of 5 of us, sitting next to the heater and mother with 3 kittens.  We had several Peregrino friend groups sitting next to us as well, making a taking big group of Peregrinos dining as a large family.  We invited a lone diner to our table, cause a person shouldn't have to dine alone.  Turns out he was not a Peregrino, but driving a camper van and exploring this region in his retirement.  We just had the most awesome time dining and enjoying each other's company, many solo people sitting as one large family, language barrier be damned!  As I sat there, I couldn't help but think, this is the way we were meant to be.  We weren't meant to be huddled in our homes, we were meant to be one BIG family.  Ooh, and the authentic Italian food was awesome as well along with the friendly personality of the staff and the love for their job - a restaurant recommendation wisely placed by some good friends back at home :)!

Tonight was a reminder to us Peregrinos not to limit ourselves to interacting with just Peregrinos.  By unselfishly inviting a lone diner to our table, it upped the pleasure of everyone there and while some of us may never see each other again, the memories of the event will last...

Think of it this way, you are dining with friends, you have a spare seat at the table and you see a lone diner...  They are not a part of your "group", but when you think about it, your group is all people alone getting together...  Does that thinking make you more inclined to share your company?  Also, remember, every friend was once a total stranger!  When I started my pilgrimage, I was a totally alone in a foreign land, yet by opening myself I note have a large family and really don't feel alone in the least.

I know on pilgrimage, Peregrinos look after Peregrinos, but stay with me...  What if people looked after people!?  I know I'm asking for a lot, but let the thought sink in for a bit...  What if people didn't have to go on pilgrimage to experience humanity as it was meant to be...  Just putting it out there!

Anyways, today's stop is Sarria!  This is the big intake town during the summer and early fall for Peregrinos (mainly Spanish) who are walking the last 100km.  Funny, yesterday in Triacastela, it seemed crowded, now entering Sarria, it seems empty.  Here's the thing, of you think of the Camino as a highway, it grows from a 2 lane road insert the Pyranese to a 4 lane road entering Sarria...  Then it instantly wife's to a 10 lane highway.  With the Spanish season over, there are no significant numbers entering Camino, so of course the 10 lanes is going to suddenly feel empty.  On the bright side, albergues are APLENTY from here to Santiago!  My albergue, has two in the dorms (myself and another) and two double rooms rented.  6 Peregrinos out of ~32 beds, pretty quiet, a large change from the traffic jam yesterday, of course there are dozens of albergues in town to handle the extra traffic during the May - August peak for this town.

Enough rambling, of the doubt have refrigerated milk on stores, all in tetra packs, so, yeah, as I was saying, enough rambling - I'm going to hit the sack (yes, my silk sleep sack in my sleeping bag) and get some shut-eye.  No alarm tomorrow, no rush.  23km planned.  And the terrain from here to Santiago is pretty easy, a few whoops, but nothing to get excited about.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Day 32 - Third day of RAIN?

Well, the weather was SUPPOSED to clear up this morning.. Hahahaha!  Woke up (late, 6:45, no one wanted to get our of bed apparently) to howling winds with torrential rain (and no bed bug bites).  Ah, what a beautiful way to summit to O'Cebreiro (NOT!).  Went down to the bar to find my hat, the kid said he saw it on the bar, but couldn't find it now...

OK, I can deal with howling winds and wet boots, but where the frig is my hat!?  Of all the things to be upset about, is ticked at loosing my hat (OK, it was a nice hat with flap and adjusting vents)...  Seriously, I stomped my way up the ascent wondering why of all things to be upset about, I was upset about my hat!  I told myself to get a grip, I just couldn't listen to myself, the driving rain on my poncho hood with no hat underneath to lift the visor up distracted me.

So, upon summiting I decided to "release" that anger with a primal yell! - "AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH!" Right down the valley I just summited, then to feel better, a loud "WHOOOOO-HOOOOO!"!  Seriously, go outside and yell "WHOOOOO-HOOOOO!", it makes you feel better - might tick off the neighbors, but you will feel better.  Anyways, my calling card is getting known amongst the Camino family and some arrivals to the summit was while later laughed at the receipt of my calling card, they knew I was at the summit!

Visited the church of O'Cebereo...  I liked it, there was a church with pews and candles, nothing to speak of in the line of ornamentation, just a simple church!  I even paid €1 to light a candle cause it wasn't touristy (OK, in the back they did have postcards, but it was simple and honor system).  When I picture a place where people go to be spiritual, I do not picture grand cathedrals like in Burgos, but simple places, much like that church.

So, anyways, still pouring rain (I THOUGHT this was supposed to blow out early morning, is blowing for sure and still raining hard!) I take my leave of the area and head out for the days trek across the ridgeline before it dropped down the western edge.  I was managing myself pretty good until...  Yeah, remember my nice hat that had a VISOR, the visor that would have kept the poncho hookups from drooping over my eyes and not made me miss the trail turnoff...  Yeah, 1km DOWN a country road and 1km back UP the country road...  Doesn't really work miracles for ones mood...  On the other hand, is a REAL good thing I was alone then!!  See, I have taken up this habit of talking to the Camino, and today I was telling it that it wasn't going to win, it could piss rain, blow wind, and get me off track, bit skill that was going to accomplish was agitating me - not get me to quit!

So, an observation on the Camino lately - A ton more Spanish Peregrinos entering the Camino (100km or Sarria is the minimum for a Compostela).  I also notice an unintentional intimidation factor going on, they see to be nervous around long distance Peregrinos.  We shower every night and the last three days my clothes have been right-properly machine washed!  Hell, I even bought drops m antiperspirant, so smell shouldn't play into it...

ANYWAYS, so I entered the next town and just walked my sopping wet self right into a bar and right to to the bar...  All the "green" Peregrinos seemed to be giving be a berth and the bartender even tended my order first...  I felt like the bad-ass villian in an old western movie :/.  Funny, this was not an isolated occurrence either, I have noticed this happening more as I progress.  This is not how it should be, a Peregrino is a Peregrino and mileage walked should not matter, so long as they are true Peregrinos and make the Compostela rules...  Just interesting.

Anyways, I griped and grumbled my way across the ridge till I got started down the ascent.  Stopping at a bar there, i was just going to grab a limon drink (yes, another wide berth) when I hear "ah, it's the American!", looking I see a friend I made yesterday walking, a Spanish national living in Indianapolis :).  He was enjoying a nice bowl of soup - chicken noodle soup!  I don't care if it came from a can or not, it tasted good and was hot!  HAPPY KEVIN!  It was funny to set how the other Spanish people reacted to his interaction with me, somehow they feared me less?  Not sure, but he scored a free ride to town on that :).

So, this little town I am in - Triacastela - is pretty heavy Peregrino orientated, but a cute little place none the less.  Actually, from here to the end might just be one big Peregrino superhighway.

The end of the day tomorrow, marks the 100km limit, things might get more interesting.  All my Peregrino friends are all taking about slowing down and making 4 days walk into 5...   I'm going to play it as it comes :).  Even many seriously thinking of joining me to Finisterre and Muxia

Anyways, the end of another day is here and Peregrinos are already snoring and snorting :D thank god for earplugs (ooh yeah, you CAN sleep with them in...  Deafening silence!).  Ooh, and the skies finally cleared.

OOH!  My Camino motto appears to be getting a small foothold " This is my Camino, there are many like it, but this one is mine!  My Camino is my life, my life is my Camino! ".  Appears to resonate with a lot of peregrines.

Believe it or not, I have photos, rain be damned :
https://goo.gl/photos/QU64479DuVJGNPXWA

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Rain rain, go away, come back when Kevin has flown away.

So. pretty interesting on the dorms last night.  As I get nearer to the end of the Camino, we pick up more Spanish nationals - they tend to walk a week or two, boy the whole thing, at least not at once.  So the Spanish culture is eagle late, siesta on the afternoon, and late bed...  Invasion their surprise when the Camino flow is no siesta - chores instead, early bed - no staying up late, and 6am wake!  Ooh, that last one...  PRICELESS!  Half a dorm of newbies and WHAM!  6am long-haulers are up naturally and packing for the days walk...  It's kinda sad, I came prepared for this routine, they seem to jump on with little preparation and in their own country get a culture shock...  At least it wasn't one of the albergues with auto lights, THAT would have been a sight to behold.
...
Oookayyy....  I wouldn't call this a tradition, first bedbug sighting of the Camino... :/ ...  This albergue has all the anti-bedbug measures, so u do not suspect they are infested, rather one hitched a ride in...  It's dead now.  We'll be on the lookout, but my liner is freshly laundered and retreated, so I'll be resting a little more assured :), but we'll see if I have bites in the morning....
....
Anyways, today was a wet walk, out early in the dark with drizzling rain.  The rain would come and go, sometimes being dry for an hour, other times waiting until you JUST take your poncho off to start raining again.  Luckily, I have a little system where I can easily reach my poncho and easily flick it over me and my pack :), I don't even have to break stride.

Well, this worked out great up until the real ascent started...  Then the hard rain started, then the Camino left the country road and headed down a dirt path...  A dirty path that soon became a river...   Yep, I walked up 600 meters in what is essentially a drainage ditch when it rains.   The Camino is SO heavily traveled in this section, the ground is literally worn down to bedrock on many places...   It's a groove in the ground, a perfect drainage system...  A drainage system I walked against the flow...  And that just got me soaked, squishy socks and all...  Luckily, I did not have far too walk, only 4.5 km but there closer I got, the worse the weather got.  I arrived at the albergue soaked to the bone in a driving rain and heavy wind - it actually stung my shoulder at one point.

But this albergue has BIG showers and lots of hot water :)...  That and splitting the cost of a €8 wash/dry made for a happy pilgrim...  That and ensalada mixta (salad with corn, tuna, and asparagus) with a big bowl of garlic soup...  Go ahead bugs, suck on my blood, see if you can stomach that (evil grin)!

Ooh, on the bugs issue, that, line so many Peregrino topics is beat to the death.  I have a system to make sure I don't introduce any back home.

So, tomorrow is the final ascent to O'Cebreiro and most of a days travel before the STEEP descent on the far side.  I have essentially, minus the descent, conquered the geographic challenges the Camino Frances offers.  This climb, which weeks ago would have kicked my ass, only succeeded in getting me wet - energy wise and I climbed it with no problem.

Ooh, before I sign off, I need help calculating how long a sound from the top of Muxia would take to get to Portland, Maine.  I can't get a good distance from the top of Muxia to Portland.

Ooh, another thing of interest...  Every bar in Spain. The great ones all the way to the dives have two things guaranteed:
An espresso machine and skilled operator...  Seriously, I saw pasta water prepared with one!  And hot chocolate is steamed milk and a package of coca cao.  And brewed coffee doesn't exist.
And the other thing is ice cream treats!  Every place has a sign with all the ice cream treats they have to offer.

And that does it for tonight...  OOH 648km down, 170 to go!  It's gotten real!

Buen Camino!
Kevin last three days photos - enjoy :

https://goo.gl/photos/GjUnt2wN3F57ftXj6

Day 30! - 1 month on Camino!

Every Camino needs a rain day, I got my first of three consecutive rain days today.  There rain wasn't THAT bad, more drizzle then real hard rain, but enough to make everything damp...  That and my rain poncho also doubles as an oven bag...  Poncho roasted Kevin, I couldn't figure out if it was wetter in or out of the poncho (I think in).  REAL good poncho, just heats the heck out of you.

Anyways, the pack cover was bunching the straps, which in turn gave me a back ache.  Once I got the ache, no matter what I did, the ache was there!  Compound that by the cool wet weather and it made for some bad aches.

I survived until Pieros, where I went to my destined albergue...  With no driers!  My clothes have been sick washed for quite a while, they were in desperate need of a full machine wash and my sleeping bag liner was 29 Camino days funky.  It wasn't going to happen there, really felt compelled to move on...

Emotionally, that was a rough thing to do, backache, rain, 7km, and just miserable!  Got to Villafranka quite miserable, followed the Camino arrows and found myself not on the way to my albergue (Two sets of arrows >:( ).  Generality in a right miserable mood, I did take advantage on a concurrently l conveinently placed ATM.  Then, I parked myself inside a bar and decided to relax and have a coka-cola light before resuming my trek.  Finished in the bar, I resumes my quest to get to my albergue, fighting misleading directions and increasing frustration each step...  For a brief moment, I was just frustrated and wanted back home, then I checked myself and regained my wits and got myself on the real Camino path and to my albergue.

Then things got better, I got to my albergue and they were just ready to help, €5 for laundry wash and dry, and they do it!!!  HECK YEAH!  They were bringing me up to the dorms so I could choose a bed and I heard "Kevin!?, Is that you?!"...  My heart lifted as I found 3 friends at the top of the stairs greating my with warm smiles!  All my problems just disappeared right there, after all, how can you be miserable with friends!

So, I end this day on a high note.  Tomorrow I will be doing the road route and not the scenic route out of town.  I have no desire for climbing to the top of a valley and running the ridge in the rain, one slip and express route to the bottom!  Day after I make the final attack on O'Cebreiro.

Anyways, it's very late and I need to sign offs.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

CRUZ DE FERRO!

WOW!  What a start to the day!
So, yesterday I practical ran up the mountain.  This morning, I ran up the remaining 1.9km to the top of the mountain, sprinting past many Peregrinos and summiting to Cruz de Ferro with plenty of time to watch the sunrise.  When the sky was sufficiently lit with its sunrise colors, I had a prayer read aloud by Nancy and placed one of two burdens carefully on the pile, right near the pole.  The second burden, I quietly placed on the pole - our mental parting was yesterday, today was just the physical parting.  I departed the massive rock pile feeling very energized and ready.

Taking one last look out to the east (my past), I turned my attention to the west and the new adventures it will hold.  There was a bit of a dip then a climb back out before stopping at the Thomas the Templar site.  After that, the remainder of the climb back up and then down...  Don't ask me why, but going up and down is very easy, going flat is a pain.  Anyways, I motivated down 900 meters to the valley below practically leaving smoking trails behind.

I bottomed out at Molinaseca, where I had previously had doubts about calling it a day, but just as I arrived into town *KA-BOOM!*...  *BANG*... *BOOM*...  Daytime fireworks (just reports, no display)!  Hey, they heard about Kevin and are announcing my approach to town...  Well, that is what I am telling people at least ;)...  It felt like a grand entrance!  I crossed the old Roman bridge and spotted a nice cafe next to the river below, so I made my way there and waited for Nancy to catch up to me...  It was that cafe, that at first convinced me to start in that town...  Or was that cafe that left a bitter taste in my mouth and convinced me to move on to ponferrada (not bad service, just NO service).

Ponferrada it was decided, and I was glad.  Visited the nights Templar castle (I know there are many of you with interest in the Templars :) )...  It was awesome!  Look at the pictures for a glimpse at it.  Walking around in the inside, you could get a sense for what it must have been like in its heyday.

Smacked down some tapas with some Peregrino friends from California where were recalled how the Camino brought us out of our shells in regards to standing up for oneself (OK, for me it was defendings young lady).

So, I this have noticed this about myself lately - I have a ton more energy, and positive energy.  I feel like a full pot boiling over with excess energy.  Flying up and down paths, bounding around when done for the day, always taking the stairs, never the elevator (even if it involves 4 trips back/forth to the 2nd floor), and I feel giddy like a kid sometimes.  It's like part kid, part young adult with all the energy and drive...  It's pretty awesome!

Anyways, how about a few more random thoughts:
Spanish bathroom lights are all on timers - some are pads you have to push, others switches you have to press, others motion activated...  The ones you touch are easy, the lights go off you tap the switch.  The motion activated are a lot more fun...  You might have to waive an arm or kick a leg out to trigger it...   Which has the potential for dangerous results when a man is standing at the appointed spot and -blink-...  Lights out...  You really done want to me moving too many body parts during this business or you run the risk of missing your target.
Sunrise seems more important to Peregrinos then sunsets, symbolically, it represents a fresh start.
Bedtime is no later then 10, often 8:30...  Wake-up is 6am...  You get over it real quick.
The elderly crowd love Peregrinos.  The younger crowd, particularly the toughest segment, almost fear Peregrinos...  Maybe having already walked 600km says something...  Dunno, but they give you a wide berth when you walk thru.
The Spanish will celebrate anything!  Had a good bowel movement after a few days of being constipated?  Parade and fireworks is in order!

Anyways, it's super late for this Peregrino (private room tonight, no bedtime).

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Day 28 - Murias de Rechivaldo to Foncebadón

Hard to believe, I have been on Camino now for 28 days.  It feels like I started eons ago and it feels like yesterday.  Funny, you'll really lose track of your sense of time on Camino and aside from your immediate location you kinda lost track of where you are.  Have to stop sometimes and check my progress to see where I really am side from someplace on Camino.

So, today was essentially all uphill all day...  Guess who's afterburners were blazing!?  Ooh yeah!  I was making for the summit sand it was only when I realized the albergue situation post summit that I paused for the night at the last albergue in the last town before Cruz de Ferro. 

What an interesting village this is...   Check that, what an interesting Peregrino local this is.  Prior to 2000, it was an abandoned village, largely in rubble.  Since then it has been reborn and rebuilt into a large collection of albergues, bars, shops, and one really awesome restaurant.

This restaurant is really done up with a medevil flair and matching foods.  Venison stew, quail, etc. peppered the menu in a delightfully warm atmosphere (and temp warm, it was Cool out today!).

I won't spend much time explaining the town, I'll let they pictures speak for themselves.

Tomorrow morning, sunrise, Cruz de Ferro!  Until then, here are some random thoughts:
Are power lines supposed to crackle!?  I have walked under many power lines, and some have been crackling!...  Uncomfortable!
Today is my last day I can really look back across the Meseta in the distance, tomorrow I descend and loose it from view, oddly symbolic given tomorrow's ordinary goal.
The Camino could not exist in the States, WAY to many regulations!  You could never walk thru an active interstate interchange construction in the States, but here the Camino goes right thru it.😐
I did not realize that one could talk so much and at such length about feet and their condition...  Ooh, and boots come off at pretty much every rest break, luckily there are no "no shoes, no shirt, no service" signs here...  Peregrinos would be screwed if there were!!!  No really, foot care is like a constant...  Stopping for a drink?  Destroy the baño, wash hands (pray for soap), order beverage, boots off, socks often also, drink beverage while closely examining feet and applying remedies.  Finish beverage, socks and boots back on, drop off cup, visit bano, wash hands again, & hit the trail!
You can't possibly miss American music!  Seriously, Spanish radio stations, play at least 50% or more American music! 
On that same thought, out is amazing how much English is spoken, even if just "poko" (little bit).  Poko English, poko Spanish, lots of animated gestures and sound effects, and you can accomplish tons in this country!  Want to say the break was yummy?  Rub hands on belly, smile a big smile, and go "Mmmmmm!".
If you TRY to learn the Spanish words, they are now then willing to help you, and often will write it down for you.  That, and they treat you better, but you have to sincerely try!

With that, I'm calling it a night.

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/4NXTaJqSp379zuvp9

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Missing link to photos

OK, so blogging software messed up, I had to wiggle around to get the blog published.  Here is the link for the photos.

https://goo.gl/photos/zDXBnjeVt4HBYADU8

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Day 27 - Hospital de Orbigo to Murias de Rechivaldo.

First, catch up on yesterday!
Yesterday was the last of the Meseta marches, we made our escape from Leon and made our way to Hospital de Orbigo.  In the morning, we were one really big family, and by days end we had 15km separating the leaders (Nancy and I) from the back of the pack (they elected to walk the industrial zone out of Leon).

One of the wonderful things about three Camino is the numerous "Donativo" stands doing the Camino, pay what you want, if you want!  You can set one of the pictures the guy has a dome complete with power, want OJ, he'll freshly squeezed some for you.  Hot coffee, no problem, tissues, wipes, snacks, all Donativo and all no problem.  They do it for the love (and I bet a pretty sizeable return on their monetary investment).

We had one, 7km long stretch of road... No corners, just field - you know it's bad when you get excited because there is a fence to break up the monotony of the walk.  Many stopped for the day at San Justo de La Vega, but we pushed on to a reservation at an albergue that came highly recommended.

Arriving at our albergue unwilling to make another step, we discovered it was not Italian themed as lead to believe, but as the German book describes best " “Albergue Verde” is nearly a must for vegetarians and alternative spiritually-oriented pilgrims."...  A hippie albergue!  I did say that I read going to let the Camino help guide me, so I said what the heck, the beds were clean and the place seemed generally tidy, just very friendly hosts and a lot of comfortable spots to relax.  They offered a free yoga class, again, I'm here on Camino, in part, to try be things, so I attended...  Not my cup of tea, but I DID feel much better afterwards, so I wasn't complain either :).  After that long experience, we had an organic vegetarian meal, hand made my the host and served family style.

Before the meal, we had a special doing sung to us to bless the meal.  As the servers said, they sing the song nightly, but try each night to sing it with the passion of their very first time.  We had homemade baba ganoush, hummus, bread, salad, beans and rice with caramelized onions followed up with dense cake and tea.  Breakfast was a help yourself scenario, and all the food was Donativo and delicious.  The basic of the evening was the host's obvious love for his job and the passion he displayed.  He also warmly told all the Peregrinos to sleep in as late as they wished, there was no mandatory leaving time (usually 8am).

All in all, out was a great day, hard long walk and surprising albergue, but a great day.

So, before today's adventure, Cruz de Ferro is my driving force right now.  At the top of the highest point of the Camino is a tall pole with a large iron cross on top.  At the base of this pole is a massive mound of burden stones brought up my millions of previous Peregrinos over centuries and even rumored to predate Christianity.  I will be adding my own burden stone to the top of the mound when I ascend in a few days.  When I add the stone to these pile, I will release mental and emotional burdens with the stone, leaving them behind and freeing myself of them.  I carry a special burden stone, given to me by my sister-in-law - black onyx, my birthstone...  It's normal power is to relieve you of burdens, so it was a natural burden stone for my journey.

So, on to today, departed the "hippie compound" around 7 and slowly made our way back into the rolling hills, leaving the Meseta behind and looking onward to the mountains and Galacia beyond.  I also got to embrace a Peregrino tradition today - the walking clothesline!  See, clothes doesn't always get dry enough before you leave, so you pin your laundry to the outside of your pack and it dries in the morning sun.

We passed another Donativo stand today, of course leaving much more then we took, but then we have direct reports of the awesome kindness of the guy running it - he runs it from the heart, nothing else.

Just before dropping into Astorga, there is a lookout pointing out the vote and outlining the cities below...  Pointing to Cruz de Ferro on the distance...  Seriously, I was like a kid at Christmas!  Being able to set the peak in the distance just fired me up and released my inner-child!

There are two pictures of a cross on the overlook, after that is another with a tree in the center.  That tree, on the left side has a branch pointing up and pointing to the peak that is Cruz de Ferro!

It is funny, I have been excited about many things on Camino, but I really feel like I am being drawn, pulled if you will, to Cruz de Ferro.  Ever since I departed Leon, the summit has been drawing at me and the main focus of my travels, pushing hard for three days so we may hopefully summit for sunrise on Saturday, releasing our burdens and freeing up that space for more positive energy/emotions to refill that space.

OH!  Today makes 4, full weeks of being on Camino, in the short weeks I will be returning back home to my family.   distance wise, I am less then 300km from my primary destination (I have a post Santiago destination of Finisterre and Muxia)

....Oh, hold on, dinner is served, I'll return soon....
Mid dinner update: wonderful fresh salad, and a vegetable lasagna, served of course with water, wine, and bread.  The lasagna is phenomenal.
Dessert is a Fromage Blanche your deal with jam on top....
...
OOH YEAH BABY!!!  They are serving a nightcap!!!  Orujo de hierbas - the albino pink elephants come out tonight!!!
.....
OK, where were we?  Ooh yeah, the draw to Cruz de Ferro...  Funny, MANY people at tonight's table are feeling the same thing, a big draw to the summit.  Guess I'll have plenty of friends to Keri need company!

Anyways, that about wraps it up for me tonight.  I'm sure I'll have plenty to write about tomorrow and of not, Saturday should be great!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Where is my blog!

Typed a nice long blog to cover two days, it is stuck on publishing.

Intermission over!

Intermission over, back on Camino.  Turbo blog tonight, out of day time to do things.
29km walked, staying at some hippie albergue, thought it was something else.  Awesome experience great vegetarian food.  Came to Camino to try things, tried yoga, helped with assorted trail aches and pains.  Donativo meal was great!  Want what we thought we'd were getting, place was still awesome, owner very engaging!

So tired, so late, so happy!

Photo dump :
https://goo.gl/photos/UzE7UnjFcBdikNrs6

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Day 25 - Leon rest day!

Spent the day exploring Leon...  What a treat it is to be here.  A few things that came to my attention quickly.  Leon is CLEAN!  Seriously, they have cleaning crews constantly cleaning the place up.  They are very pedestrian friendly and heavy.  The old city is traffic controlled and very much pedestrian based, streets full of people walking that in another city would be full of vehicles.  The new sections of town are well organized and laid out.  And the people are friendly.  In short, it was the perfect place for me to declare a rest day.

I visited all the relevant must-see locations and spent a bit of time just unwinding with my Peregrino friends exploring around town on our own.

The Pinnacle of the day was a nice gathering of Peregrino friends at a restaurant and enjoying each other's company.  We did something special, going around the table we reach spoke about what special thing we got from the Camino.  Responses include:
The Spanish people are so friendly and embracing of Peregrinos, particularly foreigners.
The comradery and friendships the quickly build and the level of Peregrino to Peregrino assistance constantly offered - AKA, the Peregrino family.
Many spoke of the Camino as an intelligent entity and how it has embraced us and guided us.

It was just a wonderful time, to think 25 days ago we were all complete strangers and now many of us are lifetime friends, brought together by a commonality and bond that seems to deny nationality and other distinguishing characteristics...  A Peregrino is a Peregrino, all Peregrinos are family :).

Tomorrow, it's back on the trail.  In a few daysi will submit to Cruz de Ferro (the iron cross) where I will place my burden stone on top of a massive pile of previously placed burden stones (thank you Tara for the perfect gift, I shall definitely leave my burdens behind).  Relieved of my burdens, I shall then tackle the end stages of my journey to Santiago over the be few weeks and time permitting head to the ocean.

The next few weeks are sure to be exciting as I get ever closer to Santiago (currently 310km to go) and I enter the Galacia Provence with its unstable weather and challenging trails.

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/YKHkErPk7WJWyrf59

Until then,
Buen Camino!
Kevin

P.S., Yes, those are McCain French fries, made in Maine, cooked in Spain!  That must explain their French fry addiction.

Kevin and the totally awesome day!

Guess who woke up at 2:45am to go out and walk in the dark so here could watch the eclipse!?!?!?  Ooh yeah!  I only wanted to only catch the last half, but I got the whole show!  I got all ~2 1/2 hours of eclipse and walked into Reliegos just as it ended.

The event was super cool, super spooky, a bit crazy, cold, and a whole lot rewarding!  Seriously, who says "I'm in a foreign country, in the middle of nowhere, I'm going to walk 5 hours in the dark alone!" and then does it!?  Well, back at home I can tell you I surely would have been snuggly in my bed. 

I was walking down the road, red light on, pausing to look at the moon's progress into the shadow when I decided to flick on the white light and orient myself on the center of the road (no traffic, easier then walking the path nearby) when I got closer and turned my head I suddenly saw a man standing in the road...  My first reaction was "WHOA!" then a laugh, as the surprise subsided I realized I was not the only crazy one doing the same thing.  He was quick to apologize and explained he thought I was one of his group and had already spotted him.  Soon, more people joined and a flock (what DO you call a group a pilgrims?) of us were walking in near silence for 3 hours, observing all the stages of the eclipse and post full moon.  We got into Reliegos and many Peregrinos were just waking.  Stopped outside the Elvis bar and ate my packed breakfast then decided to haul tush to Mansilla de las Mulas for breakfast.  Arriving just at sunrise we located an open bar for breakfast.  Inquiring, I discovered the bus station was just behind the bar, so I went over to inquire about a bus to Leon (roughly every 30 minutes, in Spanish time that is) and I saw several of my Peregrino friends there which just solidified my decision to jump into Leon.

I scored a single room (OK, it's a double, but it's all mine!) With its own bathroom and a towel (a towel for €20!!!) And FREE laundry machines with soap!!! - SCORE!

Know what else today is, it represents my 1/2 time day, it is my 24th day on Camino!  And it makes me think about what Camino has done to me.  I journey of each morning, sometimes VERY early morning ;) and often have no idea where I am stopping and where I am staying (to be fair, sometimes I do).  I kinda let the Camino guide me and it brings my ban Camino friends in and out of my journey.  I take reach day add it comes and try to end each day a better person then when I started it.  I am usually well planned, either out of necessity or habit, but I usually know where my day is going.  Heck, I walk into places here the I would speed-by and not give a second chance to back in the States, and I really enjoy my meals and stays.

So, anyways, in Leon or is like a massive Peregrino reunion!  I saw so many of my Peregrino friends tonight.  Toured the Leon cathedral, if you remember my post about the Burgos cathedral you remember it was overly opulent and lavish...  This is the opposite, very grand, but clean and simple with the exception of a LOT of stained glass windows!  Very beautiful cathedral and not overly done like Burgos.  Later we roamed around looking for eats, you know, that was actually a project!  I injested a lot of coka-cola light and chips before we found food...  OOH!  I got my mid pilgrimage Peregrino haircut!!!  I almost look human again, starting to feel a little more human :).

Here is the funny thing, I walked ~18km, took a bus to Leon, did my Peregrino chores, walked around Leon from 1:30 to 9:30 and was just had energy bubbling out of me the whole time.  I only called it a day cause it was getting chilly.

YESTERDAY'S PHOTOS :
https://goo.gl/photos/cdQYcTZrYnCohEzS6

TODAY'S PHOTOS :
https://goo.gl/photos/3Mh1krKvMY99Crnu5

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Day 23 - Sahagun to El Burgo Renaro!

I'M BACK ON THE TRAIL!!!  WOOT!!!

Wow, what a difference just one down day makes!  WHOO!  My feet feel SO much better!  Taking advice from sin friends with had my first experience with Jakotrans today (a pack transfer service) - it worked as it was supposed to.  I took a slack pack for the day and had my burden transferred to my scheduled albergue....  See, you HAVE to plan ahead to do this, no winging it.  Bottom line, a down day and a light day and I'm feeling back to my energetic self!   Hah, the Camino's challenge was accepted and conquered.

Today's walk was nice, kind boring after a bit, but nice.  They planted trees to line the Camino and it provides shade and reassurance that you are on the Camino path.

Now tomorrow, I think I'm nuts....   No, check that, I HAVE to be nuts!  I'm going to get up at 2:45am local time and walk under the eclipse!  See, told you I was nuts!  But hear me out, so many people walk for a bit on the dark, it's a Peregrino tradition for many.  So, I started looking at the full moon schedule and what do I find?!  Tomorrow AM, is not only a full moon, but it is a super-moon (30% brighter), and its the blood moon or a lunar eclipse...  WOOT!  So, in planning, I wanted to walk the Meseta in the dark once (check, done already), but I wanted to really under a full moon...  If I had pushed ahead and didn't take downtime and split up my stages, I would be off the Meseta and in a place where my view would be obscured... Didn't happen, I'm here to view it!
Ooh, and its ones of a bazillion end of the world prophesies, I've survived every single one so far, I hardly think this one is the real one...  Hell, if it is, I'll be outside to face it head on.  Either way, my walk has been made possible, I'm going to do it....  Or peek out the window, roll over, and go back to sleep.  I reserve the right to change my mind.

Anyways, I'm going to bed now.  More to come tomorrow!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Day 22 - First down day!

After walking continuous for 21 days, my feet won the battle!  No walking toda
I started the day sadly accepting my fate was to abandon the Meseta.  The biggest challenge had been met, but left me wounded as well.  Recovery & Rest was my only option today, walking OFF the table!  It seemed cemented when I discovered there was a THIRD Peregrino destined for the taxi ride.

Very depressed, I watched my friends leaving with their packs while the trio of us sat and waited for our taxi...  It read then, that an obvious thought escaped us...  We don't need to go the train, out taxi stop is a large enough town...  We'll take a REST DAY!  Well two of us would, the third we escorted to the urgent care center (so very fast and efficient).  Sarah, celebrating her 20th birthday tomorrow was taken off her feet for several days and shipped via train ahead to Leon!  Tom and I decided to just callup out a rest day and let the Camino family catch us.

We scored a SWEET albergue!  Seriously, after a few weird albergues, this place is so sweet, last night's was sweet as well, but the people here are great!

Ooh, guess who's taking a friend advice and trying a 43 and leche!  Ooh yeah!  Almost a slightly minty taste.

Anyways, today turned out pretty good, Camino Ray and I reconnected at the albergue, Nancy is keeping in touch via I'm, the Camino Family is looking out for each other - Life is pretty good.

Camino Ray and I went for a stroll and captured some ominous looking clouds...  Later they kicked up quite a wind, but nothing else locally.  I did get to watch a thunderstorm roll past out on the open Meseta!  Watched the lightning while sipping a Coca-Cola Light from the patio.  Captured a nice rainbow as well and took that as a sign that good choices were made and I am on the right path.  Funny, I didn't know Unicron's danced on rainbows...  Wait, was the unicorn real or was that the nightcap?..

Anyways, tomorrow's plan is to slack pack it and ship the heavy pack you the next stop.  This requires more planning then I usually like, but it is what it is, I need to give these feet a rest.

It will feel good to get back on the trail again tomorrow.  Going to do two light days and bus thru the industrial zone into Leon.  Perhaps I might score a bike for a few days :)...

I think there is a concert Inc the bull ring outside our albergue!  Either that, it a concert on the radio, just very loud...  Gutta check this out...  Nope, just a loud radio :)...

Hey, before I call it a night, remember that tomorrow night is a special lunar eclipse and blood moon and a super Moon to boot!

OK, it's a night, the fireworks are going off and the teddybears are matching down the street.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Photo dumps

Wednesday :
https://goo.gl/photos/7PiN3bxMwCYzeEtd8
Hello Kittied by the pharmacist, my work friends can appreciate that!

Thursday :
https://goo.gl/photos/UpSeYVTdxmpTFJrs6
Starting the deep Meseta

Friday :
https://goo.gl/photos/MvYsQ6Y99RVsUj3M9
The heart of the Meseta.  Also a beating ground for feet.

Saturday :
https://goo.gl/photos/w8z9u9yN365Xcv419
At rest day, storm rolling past on the Meseta.

Battling the Meseta!

So, today's stage, to put it bluntly, was a bitch!  19km of foot pounding blister aggravating no breaks Meseta!  You know it's a rough section when the guide had this to say about completing this section "Congrats! You passed the ordeal!"...

So, this morning, we woke early and treat to take this section.  Packed with food and water for the haul, we struck out in the pitch black under a full starry sky and had several kilometers behind us before the first twinges of twilight peeked over the horizon.  What a feeling to be walking and just slowly have the sun rise behind you.  But the sun keeps rising and soon cool becomes warm and warm becomes warmer and the feet get tired and there are no significant places to stop...  Except for this little "bar"...  The bar that is a small metal box and an awning...  But, hey, it's better then nothing!  We continued another 9km to the next town and anything resembling rest.   9km across the Meseta plain on hard packed gravel road...  Feet pounding road...  Anyways, the pilgrim train stretched out into this long thin line of very tired looking Peregrinos into the horizon both on front and behind me.  Camino Ray, a bit ahead of me, stopped for a shoelace adjustment, I staggered on by only muttering "I'm sick of walking." and staggering right by.
Now, I must admit, the challenge of the day was wearing very thin and I am not ashamed to admit that I had reached exhaustion with the Camino and grew weary of the whole adventure - I wanted the comfort and safety of home!  Just as I was about to literally sit down and call-in a taxi, I saw the glint of a rooftop!  Unbeknownst to me, I lifted up my poles and started waving them slightly, as the roofs came more pronounced, the poles went up on the air in a victory salute!  When I saw a full on village, just at the bottom of a short drop, I spun around and let out my victory yell "WOOOOOOOOO-HOOOOOOOO!!!!!!"!...  Everyone I know within a large area knew I made it!  Everyone else knew there was an end to the torture!
It's funny, I started talking to the Camino telling it that " I PASSED, YOU FAILED TO STOP ME!"... I even duh in the poles for extra measure.

I took an hour break with my boots off, probably should have called it a day, but rested enough to make the last 6.6km....  Mistake!

Ooh, we saw Nancy today and even walked for a bit, but she crashed where I should have, the fellowship remains broken.

So my feet hurt!  It feels like I have been beating then senseless for the last 21 days...  Wait, I have been!  Anyways, it is clear I need a few days of the trail or my feet won't be in walking condition.  Looks like I'll skip the last few stages on the Meseta and bus into Leon where I'll crash for a few days and let the feet heal.  When I restart, I'll do a few short stages to let the feet adjust back.  Ironically, many people have bad feet damage - a Peregrino saith 2000km down got a blister!  There is a young Peregrino with her get in real bad shape that needed a reminding that this is her Camino and up to 100km, there are no "rules".  I have my Camino, she has hers...  She's going to follow me into Leon and likewise take some downtime and let her feet heal.

When the Camino speaks, you need to listen!  I defeated the challenge, but got my scars from the battle to remind me who is on charge!

So, tomorrow morning, the fellowship will be completely broken as I hop a bus and take an overdue break...  My price for not doing so earlier.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Frómista to carión de los condes

Alternatively titled "The Breaking of the Fellowship".  Our good friend Nancy parted company today, charging ahead she desired to partake in a special monastery albergue experience.  After that, her Camino will be a solo journey for a while.  Totally understood as only a fellow Peregrino can understand.  Besides, the Camino has a habit of constantly reuniting Camino family over and over :)!

We choose an alternative and more scenic route option, mainly besides a small stream with plenty of shade trees, always else to see the Peregrino highway totally exposed in the middle of an open landscape.

Some observations as a Peregrino.  You get really happy when a restroom has soap, a means of drying your hands is bliss.  If you score a room that provides towels your day is perfect.  Doctor Bronners soap bars REALLY do clean everything, clothes included.  It doesn't matter WHAT time you go to bed, 10pm is bedtime and 6 am is wake-up.  The Spanish really really really love their bread, seriously, you could order nothing but bread, and it would come with a side of sliced bread.  Spanish love their potatoes almost as much as their bread, the put it in omelettes (Spanish omelette).  There are no big stores to speak of,  supermarkedo can be two shelves of goods in the back storage room of a bar, the biggest I have seen is probably still smaller then what we call corner conveinence stores.  Spain has a ton of tiny Pharmacias, and the pharmacist acts almost as a doctor - tell them what's wrong, and they produce some Spanish cure, often prescription strength in the states, and detailed instructions on use.  Spanish pharmacists KNOW how to tend to blisters, they treat enough of them :)!  9am is bright and early for most Spanish people, midnight is their bedtime (or later).  Spanish people, particularly the elderly, show a lot of respect and love for Peregrinos - I have never seen so many hugs and kisses from total strangers.  On that same though, I don't think I have ever seen and bad feelings towards Peregrinos, in a festival they just moved over and let you in...  It is so much a part of their culture that you automatically fit in...  You can walk into, what is obviously the locals hangout, and they just don't care.

I have finished up my 19th day walking, earned every blister on my feet, which have taken to screaming, or is that barking, at the end of the day...  Doesn't matter, they get their rest at night.  The amount of mileage walked varies greatly by guide and assorted confusing signposts.

Using a guide that seems to be the most accurate, around noon tomorrow I will pass 1/2 way point...  I may have today at noon, who knows?  Let's call it just under 400km walked, that's just under 250 miles, so just about 1/2 way there!  I often still find myself during the day having a hard time believing I am here undertaking a journey as large as this.  I keep looking back at maps and even looking back in the distance, telling myself that I did it, I brought myself here with my own two legs...  No wonder my feet hurt at the end of the day :).  I prepaid so long mentally, physically, evolutionarily, & spiritually that it feels odd.
I got talking with some Peregrinos today we meet in Pamplona.  We got talking about walking out of Saint Jean to begin our journies and it all seems so far back now.  The have been so many things happen during our walking that it boggles the mind.

Anyways, tomorrow is an early start, a place opens for breakfast at 5:45am... Allegedly!  Guess who's looking to put them to the test?!  Early start on the Meseta means beating some of the worst heat of the day, means we get to burn some trail!

Buen Camino!
Kevin