Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Intermission over!

Intermission over, back on Camino.  Turbo blog tonight, out of day time to do things.
29km walked, staying at some hippie albergue, thought it was something else.  Awesome experience great vegetarian food.  Came to Camino to try things, tried yoga, helped with assorted trail aches and pains.  Donativo meal was great!  Want what we thought we'd were getting, place was still awesome, owner very engaging!

So tired, so late, so happy!

Photo dump :
https://goo.gl/photos/UzE7UnjFcBdikNrs6

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Day 25 - Leon rest day!

Spent the day exploring Leon...  What a treat it is to be here.  A few things that came to my attention quickly.  Leon is CLEAN!  Seriously, they have cleaning crews constantly cleaning the place up.  They are very pedestrian friendly and heavy.  The old city is traffic controlled and very much pedestrian based, streets full of people walking that in another city would be full of vehicles.  The new sections of town are well organized and laid out.  And the people are friendly.  In short, it was the perfect place for me to declare a rest day.

I visited all the relevant must-see locations and spent a bit of time just unwinding with my Peregrino friends exploring around town on our own.

The Pinnacle of the day was a nice gathering of Peregrino friends at a restaurant and enjoying each other's company.  We did something special, going around the table we reach spoke about what special thing we got from the Camino.  Responses include:
The Spanish people are so friendly and embracing of Peregrinos, particularly foreigners.
The comradery and friendships the quickly build and the level of Peregrino to Peregrino assistance constantly offered - AKA, the Peregrino family.
Many spoke of the Camino as an intelligent entity and how it has embraced us and guided us.

It was just a wonderful time, to think 25 days ago we were all complete strangers and now many of us are lifetime friends, brought together by a commonality and bond that seems to deny nationality and other distinguishing characteristics...  A Peregrino is a Peregrino, all Peregrinos are family :).

Tomorrow, it's back on the trail.  In a few daysi will submit to Cruz de Ferro (the iron cross) where I will place my burden stone on top of a massive pile of previously placed burden stones (thank you Tara for the perfect gift, I shall definitely leave my burdens behind).  Relieved of my burdens, I shall then tackle the end stages of my journey to Santiago over the be few weeks and time permitting head to the ocean.

The next few weeks are sure to be exciting as I get ever closer to Santiago (currently 310km to go) and I enter the Galacia Provence with its unstable weather and challenging trails.

PHOTO DUMP :
https://goo.gl/photos/YKHkErPk7WJWyrf59

Until then,
Buen Camino!
Kevin

P.S., Yes, those are McCain French fries, made in Maine, cooked in Spain!  That must explain their French fry addiction.

Monday, September 28, 2015

Kevin and the totally awesome day!

Guess who woke up at 2:45am to go out and walk in the dark so here could watch the eclipse!?!?!?  Ooh yeah!  I only wanted to only catch the last half, but I got the whole show!  I got all ~2 1/2 hours of eclipse and walked into Reliegos just as it ended.

The event was super cool, super spooky, a bit crazy, cold, and a whole lot rewarding!  Seriously, who says "I'm in a foreign country, in the middle of nowhere, I'm going to walk 5 hours in the dark alone!" and then does it!?  Well, back at home I can tell you I surely would have been snuggly in my bed. 

I was walking down the road, red light on, pausing to look at the moon's progress into the shadow when I decided to flick on the white light and orient myself on the center of the road (no traffic, easier then walking the path nearby) when I got closer and turned my head I suddenly saw a man standing in the road...  My first reaction was "WHOA!" then a laugh, as the surprise subsided I realized I was not the only crazy one doing the same thing.  He was quick to apologize and explained he thought I was one of his group and had already spotted him.  Soon, more people joined and a flock (what DO you call a group a pilgrims?) of us were walking in near silence for 3 hours, observing all the stages of the eclipse and post full moon.  We got into Reliegos and many Peregrinos were just waking.  Stopped outside the Elvis bar and ate my packed breakfast then decided to haul tush to Mansilla de las Mulas for breakfast.  Arriving just at sunrise we located an open bar for breakfast.  Inquiring, I discovered the bus station was just behind the bar, so I went over to inquire about a bus to Leon (roughly every 30 minutes, in Spanish time that is) and I saw several of my Peregrino friends there which just solidified my decision to jump into Leon.

I scored a single room (OK, it's a double, but it's all mine!) With its own bathroom and a towel (a towel for €20!!!) And FREE laundry machines with soap!!! - SCORE!

Know what else today is, it represents my 1/2 time day, it is my 24th day on Camino!  And it makes me think about what Camino has done to me.  I journey of each morning, sometimes VERY early morning ;) and often have no idea where I am stopping and where I am staying (to be fair, sometimes I do).  I kinda let the Camino guide me and it brings my ban Camino friends in and out of my journey.  I take reach day add it comes and try to end each day a better person then when I started it.  I am usually well planned, either out of necessity or habit, but I usually know where my day is going.  Heck, I walk into places here the I would speed-by and not give a second chance to back in the States, and I really enjoy my meals and stays.

So, anyways, in Leon or is like a massive Peregrino reunion!  I saw so many of my Peregrino friends tonight.  Toured the Leon cathedral, if you remember my post about the Burgos cathedral you remember it was overly opulent and lavish...  This is the opposite, very grand, but clean and simple with the exception of a LOT of stained glass windows!  Very beautiful cathedral and not overly done like Burgos.  Later we roamed around looking for eats, you know, that was actually a project!  I injested a lot of coka-cola light and chips before we found food...  OOH!  I got my mid pilgrimage Peregrino haircut!!!  I almost look human again, starting to feel a little more human :).

Here is the funny thing, I walked ~18km, took a bus to Leon, did my Peregrino chores, walked around Leon from 1:30 to 9:30 and was just had energy bubbling out of me the whole time.  I only called it a day cause it was getting chilly.

YESTERDAY'S PHOTOS :
https://goo.gl/photos/cdQYcTZrYnCohEzS6

TODAY'S PHOTOS :
https://goo.gl/photos/3Mh1krKvMY99Crnu5

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Sunday, September 27, 2015

Day 23 - Sahagun to El Burgo Renaro!

I'M BACK ON THE TRAIL!!!  WOOT!!!

Wow, what a difference just one down day makes!  WHOO!  My feet feel SO much better!  Taking advice from sin friends with had my first experience with Jakotrans today (a pack transfer service) - it worked as it was supposed to.  I took a slack pack for the day and had my burden transferred to my scheduled albergue....  See, you HAVE to plan ahead to do this, no winging it.  Bottom line, a down day and a light day and I'm feeling back to my energetic self!   Hah, the Camino's challenge was accepted and conquered.

Today's walk was nice, kind boring after a bit, but nice.  They planted trees to line the Camino and it provides shade and reassurance that you are on the Camino path.

Now tomorrow, I think I'm nuts....   No, check that, I HAVE to be nuts!  I'm going to get up at 2:45am local time and walk under the eclipse!  See, told you I was nuts!  But hear me out, so many people walk for a bit on the dark, it's a Peregrino tradition for many.  So, I started looking at the full moon schedule and what do I find?!  Tomorrow AM, is not only a full moon, but it is a super-moon (30% brighter), and its the blood moon or a lunar eclipse...  WOOT!  So, in planning, I wanted to walk the Meseta in the dark once (check, done already), but I wanted to really under a full moon...  If I had pushed ahead and didn't take downtime and split up my stages, I would be off the Meseta and in a place where my view would be obscured... Didn't happen, I'm here to view it!
Ooh, and its ones of a bazillion end of the world prophesies, I've survived every single one so far, I hardly think this one is the real one...  Hell, if it is, I'll be outside to face it head on.  Either way, my walk has been made possible, I'm going to do it....  Or peek out the window, roll over, and go back to sleep.  I reserve the right to change my mind.

Anyways, I'm going to bed now.  More to come tomorrow!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Saturday, September 26, 2015

Day 22 - First down day!

After walking continuous for 21 days, my feet won the battle!  No walking toda
I started the day sadly accepting my fate was to abandon the Meseta.  The biggest challenge had been met, but left me wounded as well.  Recovery & Rest was my only option today, walking OFF the table!  It seemed cemented when I discovered there was a THIRD Peregrino destined for the taxi ride.

Very depressed, I watched my friends leaving with their packs while the trio of us sat and waited for our taxi...  It read then, that an obvious thought escaped us...  We don't need to go the train, out taxi stop is a large enough town...  We'll take a REST DAY!  Well two of us would, the third we escorted to the urgent care center (so very fast and efficient).  Sarah, celebrating her 20th birthday tomorrow was taken off her feet for several days and shipped via train ahead to Leon!  Tom and I decided to just callup out a rest day and let the Camino family catch us.

We scored a SWEET albergue!  Seriously, after a few weird albergues, this place is so sweet, last night's was sweet as well, but the people here are great!

Ooh, guess who's taking a friend advice and trying a 43 and leche!  Ooh yeah!  Almost a slightly minty taste.

Anyways, today turned out pretty good, Camino Ray and I reconnected at the albergue, Nancy is keeping in touch via I'm, the Camino Family is looking out for each other - Life is pretty good.

Camino Ray and I went for a stroll and captured some ominous looking clouds...  Later they kicked up quite a wind, but nothing else locally.  I did get to watch a thunderstorm roll past out on the open Meseta!  Watched the lightning while sipping a Coca-Cola Light from the patio.  Captured a nice rainbow as well and took that as a sign that good choices were made and I am on the right path.  Funny, I didn't know Unicron's danced on rainbows...  Wait, was the unicorn real or was that the nightcap?..

Anyways, tomorrow's plan is to slack pack it and ship the heavy pack you the next stop.  This requires more planning then I usually like, but it is what it is, I need to give these feet a rest.

It will feel good to get back on the trail again tomorrow.  Going to do two light days and bus thru the industrial zone into Leon.  Perhaps I might score a bike for a few days :)...

I think there is a concert Inc the bull ring outside our albergue!  Either that, it a concert on the radio, just very loud...  Gutta check this out...  Nope, just a loud radio :)...

Hey, before I call it a night, remember that tomorrow night is a special lunar eclipse and blood moon and a super Moon to boot!

OK, it's a night, the fireworks are going off and the teddybears are matching down the street.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Photo dumps

Wednesday :
https://goo.gl/photos/7PiN3bxMwCYzeEtd8
Hello Kittied by the pharmacist, my work friends can appreciate that!

Thursday :
https://goo.gl/photos/UpSeYVTdxmpTFJrs6
Starting the deep Meseta

Friday :
https://goo.gl/photos/MvYsQ6Y99RVsUj3M9
The heart of the Meseta.  Also a beating ground for feet.

Saturday :
https://goo.gl/photos/w8z9u9yN365Xcv419
At rest day, storm rolling past on the Meseta.

Friday, September 25, 2015

Battling the Meseta!

So, today's stage, to put it bluntly, was a bitch!  19km of foot pounding blister aggravating no breaks Meseta!  You know it's a rough section when the guide had this to say about completing this section "Congrats! You passed the ordeal!"...

So, this morning, we woke early and treat to take this section.  Packed with food and water for the haul, we struck out in the pitch black under a full starry sky and had several kilometers behind us before the first twinges of twilight peeked over the horizon.  What a feeling to be walking and just slowly have the sun rise behind you.  But the sun keeps rising and soon cool becomes warm and warm becomes warmer and the feet get tired and there are no significant places to stop...  Except for this little "bar"...  The bar that is a small metal box and an awning...  But, hey, it's better then nothing!  We continued another 9km to the next town and anything resembling rest.   9km across the Meseta plain on hard packed gravel road...  Feet pounding road...  Anyways, the pilgrim train stretched out into this long thin line of very tired looking Peregrinos into the horizon both on front and behind me.  Camino Ray, a bit ahead of me, stopped for a shoelace adjustment, I staggered on by only muttering "I'm sick of walking." and staggering right by.
Now, I must admit, the challenge of the day was wearing very thin and I am not ashamed to admit that I had reached exhaustion with the Camino and grew weary of the whole adventure - I wanted the comfort and safety of home!  Just as I was about to literally sit down and call-in a taxi, I saw the glint of a rooftop!  Unbeknownst to me, I lifted up my poles and started waving them slightly, as the roofs came more pronounced, the poles went up on the air in a victory salute!  When I saw a full on village, just at the bottom of a short drop, I spun around and let out my victory yell "WOOOOOOOOO-HOOOOOOOO!!!!!!"!...  Everyone I know within a large area knew I made it!  Everyone else knew there was an end to the torture!
It's funny, I started talking to the Camino telling it that " I PASSED, YOU FAILED TO STOP ME!"... I even duh in the poles for extra measure.

I took an hour break with my boots off, probably should have called it a day, but rested enough to make the last 6.6km....  Mistake!

Ooh, we saw Nancy today and even walked for a bit, but she crashed where I should have, the fellowship remains broken.

So my feet hurt!  It feels like I have been beating then senseless for the last 21 days...  Wait, I have been!  Anyways, it is clear I need a few days of the trail or my feet won't be in walking condition.  Looks like I'll skip the last few stages on the Meseta and bus into Leon where I'll crash for a few days and let the feet heal.  When I restart, I'll do a few short stages to let the feet adjust back.  Ironically, many people have bad feet damage - a Peregrino saith 2000km down got a blister!  There is a young Peregrino with her get in real bad shape that needed a reminding that this is her Camino and up to 100km, there are no "rules".  I have my Camino, she has hers...  She's going to follow me into Leon and likewise take some downtime and let her feet heal.

When the Camino speaks, you need to listen!  I defeated the challenge, but got my scars from the battle to remind me who is on charge!

So, tomorrow morning, the fellowship will be completely broken as I hop a bus and take an overdue break...  My price for not doing so earlier.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Thursday, September 24, 2015

Frómista to carión de los condes

Alternatively titled "The Breaking of the Fellowship".  Our good friend Nancy parted company today, charging ahead she desired to partake in a special monastery albergue experience.  After that, her Camino will be a solo journey for a while.  Totally understood as only a fellow Peregrino can understand.  Besides, the Camino has a habit of constantly reuniting Camino family over and over :)!

We choose an alternative and more scenic route option, mainly besides a small stream with plenty of shade trees, always else to see the Peregrino highway totally exposed in the middle of an open landscape.

Some observations as a Peregrino.  You get really happy when a restroom has soap, a means of drying your hands is bliss.  If you score a room that provides towels your day is perfect.  Doctor Bronners soap bars REALLY do clean everything, clothes included.  It doesn't matter WHAT time you go to bed, 10pm is bedtime and 6 am is wake-up.  The Spanish really really really love their bread, seriously, you could order nothing but bread, and it would come with a side of sliced bread.  Spanish love their potatoes almost as much as their bread, the put it in omelettes (Spanish omelette).  There are no big stores to speak of,  supermarkedo can be two shelves of goods in the back storage room of a bar, the biggest I have seen is probably still smaller then what we call corner conveinence stores.  Spain has a ton of tiny Pharmacias, and the pharmacist acts almost as a doctor - tell them what's wrong, and they produce some Spanish cure, often prescription strength in the states, and detailed instructions on use.  Spanish pharmacists KNOW how to tend to blisters, they treat enough of them :)!  9am is bright and early for most Spanish people, midnight is their bedtime (or later).  Spanish people, particularly the elderly, show a lot of respect and love for Peregrinos - I have never seen so many hugs and kisses from total strangers.  On that same though, I don't think I have ever seen and bad feelings towards Peregrinos, in a festival they just moved over and let you in...  It is so much a part of their culture that you automatically fit in...  You can walk into, what is obviously the locals hangout, and they just don't care.

I have finished up my 19th day walking, earned every blister on my feet, which have taken to screaming, or is that barking, at the end of the day...  Doesn't matter, they get their rest at night.  The amount of mileage walked varies greatly by guide and assorted confusing signposts.

Using a guide that seems to be the most accurate, around noon tomorrow I will pass 1/2 way point...  I may have today at noon, who knows?  Let's call it just under 400km walked, that's just under 250 miles, so just about 1/2 way there!  I often still find myself during the day having a hard time believing I am here undertaking a journey as large as this.  I keep looking back at maps and even looking back in the distance, telling myself that I did it, I brought myself here with my own two legs...  No wonder my feet hurt at the end of the day :).  I prepaid so long mentally, physically, evolutionarily, & spiritually that it feels odd.
I got talking with some Peregrinos today we meet in Pamplona.  We got talking about walking out of Saint Jean to begin our journies and it all seems so far back now.  The have been so many things happen during our walking that it boggles the mind.

Anyways, tomorrow is an early start, a place opens for breakfast at 5:45am... Allegedly!  Guess who's looking to put them to the test?!  Early start on the Meseta means beating some of the worst heat of the day, means we get to burn some trail!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Day 19, still walking

Quick blog post.. I think

Pushed out of the albergue early to be on the summit for sunrise.  Funny, the climb is still hard, just don't seem to mind it as much.  Got several pre-sunrise pictures on the climb and some great sunrise ones once there.  Once on the summit, and properly forewarning nearby Peregrinos, I let out my victory "WOOOO-HOOOOO!" which was meet with more woots from below!...  Everyone knew, Kevin summited and was full of cheer :D !

There was a very nice gentleman with a table full of snacks and drinks, all Donativo!!!   Tipped him 1€  just for some water to rinse my hands with :).

Today's total mileage send to vary, but the guide I have says 29 km from door to door...  I believe it by the way my feet were swearing at me.  The legs could have gone further, the feet said "NO!".  They won!  The feet also get new gel insoles to try tomorrow :D !

I know I haven't entered the FLAT Meseta yet, that comes tomorrow on the Peregrino highway, and that night explain why I really am enthralled with the Meseta I have seen already.  Sure it's a ton of farmland, but it has a defined character that is interesting.  We shall see tomorrow if the flatland is interesting or not.

Interesting note, not sure if this is something related to the hearts or not, but the albergue owners have been stupidly anal!  Now every albergue has its works, but WOW!  Remove the broomstick from your rear-end.  Don't put a clothes wash station in your courtyard if you want it to stay dry is a good example.  It's a clothes wash station, water IS going to get on the patio.  I guess the point is not to go crazy on the decor to the point of losing function.  Ooh well, we will see about tomorrow's stay.

Hit the farmacia then we went for food, the first place looked really nice, but we waited and waited to be acknowledged...  Nada!  It looked like everyone on the patio was in a very long wait. We invited a Peregrino, Dave, from Australia to join us to save him extra waiting...  We abandoned and walked down the road to a quieter place...  SCORE!  Heck the unique table alone was with it (glass over curved wood with old saw blades and sharp stones.  The waiter was very attentive and friendly and tolerated my Spanish mistakes when ordering.  Heck, he even displayed a sense of humor when trying to get the Wi-Fi password :)!

Today was hard physically, just because if the duration, but still a very happy day.  But then that represents most days as a Peregrino, demanding and rewarding.  How do I get thru?  Well Peregrinos help everyone and show humbleness, often you give aid, buy it is there when you need it - Somehow I think this is the way the world was SUPPOSED to be, but we're got lost along the way.  Out here it seems very natural. Partly because the Spanish are generally very friendly (voted best country for tourism) but also because the Camino is deeply rooted in the culture here. Every day we get waves from total strangers, pointed in the right direction, gives discounts on lodging, and smiles, really, tons of smiles.  Something about the Camino and its Peregrinos just caused lots of people to smile and old ladies to give hugs.

Tomorrow, I expect to cross the halfway point, my victory shout is expected and fellow Peregrinos will be expecting it in the distance as a sign I am there.  Funny, I just act like myself and so many people find my happiness and cheer contagious and love to be around me, especially when I have something to celebrate.

Anyways, once again sorry becomes long.  I need to head to bed so I can wakes and repeat!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Day 18, don't stop walking

Interesting day, start in a flat are of the Meseta, but 13 km in we dive intoa valley, thru a town for a break and continue to follow the valley out onto the lower plains..  Pounding our feet to death on paved roads of some form or another four a good portion of the way...  Coming into Castrojeriz, they were not very happy feet.

Not sure on the albergue score, it has a foot bath, little stream running they the outdoors patio, and other wonderful  amenities...  But the bedrooms are tightly packed...

The place has a giant wine press in the dining area saved offers tours of their winemaking process at 8:30 every night...  Complete with a tasting of their own orujo!  Time to see some pink albino Spanish elephants tonight :D !

There is so much more to write about but time is limited and the wine tour begins.
......
OK, the wine tour is over.  The host is a very animated gentleman who illustrates how grapes were pressed and stored in ancient underground tunnels of which we got to tour a small piece...  Wine, not orujo was the sample at the end :(, sadly no albino pink elephants tonight.

So much I would like to write about, do little time...   Funny after walking and sleeping, the remaining time seems so full with the daily chores of a Peregrino.

PHOTO DUMP : https://goo.gl/photos/STzQHgbH7nETh2Dc8

Buen Camino!
Kevin

I would like to spend a blog thanking everyone who has helped me make this possible, I'll need a quiet day for that.

Monday, September 21, 2015

Entering the Meseta

Well, today is a relatively quiet day!   Hurray!

This morning was almost like a hangover from yesterday.  The city was just so ALIVE, the word used most was ENERGY the city was just flowing with it.  Given most of the city is very pedestrian it had a great feel. Given it was a Sunday night, the energy felt like a Saturday night...

Ah, so today started offer at our hotel (SCORE!) and breakfast...  It had EGGS, eggs TWO WAYS, boiled and scrambled...  I didn't know what to do, so I had both...  Wow, eggs for breakfast in Spain, it can happen!

The exit from Burgos took ~14km over mainly paved ways...  Paved ways that beat your feet silly.  It read not until our day was mostly over that we got good traveling dirt road.

Ah, the Meseta, the Spanish high flat plains.  Declaring the official start of the Meseta for myself as the end of the fence of the last house of Rabé de las Calzadas.  With that point, I entered the Meseta at 12:06pm local time.  The Meseta is a point of controversy with pilgrims, some love it, some hate it.  Many pilgrims bypass it via bus to Leon...  This Peregrino is in it for the full length god willing.  I have a feeling the Meseta will nip and snarl but not get viscous but we shall see.
It was odd, where many have apprehension about this area, I had excitement.  Oh mother Camino has thrown alum sorts of obstacles my way with mountains and cities and the occasional blister, but she has only hardened my resolve, not weakened it.  I come armed with an extra tube of sunscreen and knowledge of water spigots...

Squeaking of watering holes, only two odd kilometers into the Meseta, a wonderful oasis with water from a hand pump.

Funny being on the Meseta, the legs picked up speed considerably and I quickly gained distance from my friends.  Burning along with the afterburners firing I felt great and walked for a short while with Anna from Brazil who was the only one who could match my speed.

The Meseta is the third week of the journey and also happens to coincide with the start of the spiritual journey.  Where better to contemplate then walking a vast plain.

So that wraps it up for tonight, I am doing great, bursting with energy, and just full on rocking this Camino.

TODAY'S PHOTOS : https://goo.gl/photos/dkPw7SwCo8kYJtAL7

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Photos from Sunday

Here are Sundays photos : https://goo.gl/photos/fS5W76GcM9hrqJHY6

Sunday, September 20, 2015

Rocking the Camino into Burgos!

WOW!  I have a lot today!

The best way to sum up today, I rocked my Camino!

OK, let's catch up from last night.  In summation one drunk french guy was making an inappropriately excessive amount of noise.  A young lady from the bottom of the bunk went out and asked them politely to quiet down in respect for the peregrinos already in bed.  He very disrespectful told her that quiet time did not start until 10 p.m. and proceeded to go "LALALALA!!!" to further emphasize his point.  Apparently something about that triggered something in me because I did not climb down off the top of the bunk rather I jumped off the top of the bunk, hopping into my pants as I hopped down the hallway ready to confront them in the kitchen.  Of course when they saw another man they stopped being intimidating and immediately got quiet I looked around for the young lady and she had already left.  And her again just entering our room as I turned into the hallway in a rather loud voice III proclaimed to her that they were intimidating her and that was not something I would stand for! Young ladies already nervous enough do not need feel intimidated by their fellow peregrinos.  The drunk Frenchman then proceeded to attempt to intimidate people further by attempting to play his guitar both in the hostel and in the courtyard.  Currently my voice was loud enough that it was not only heard by the entire Hostal but half the village in the other Hostal in it.  I asked Jasmin if she was being annoying on purpose and then promised him that I would dismantle his guitar using his head if he did not stop his antics.  His fellow Frenchman quickly ushered him to bed at that point and the problem ceased.  This morning apparently all eyes were on me for fear of further confrontation.  Once I was dressed I got the attention of one of the French men and explained to him that young female peregrinos are already scared enough walking alone, they should be able to count on their fellow peregrinos and not be afraid of them.  He agreed with me and agreed that a sincere apology was owed to the young lady.  I witnessed a very sincere apology be delivered, to the other young lady from my room, but the apology was very sincere.  The offended young lady was informed and felt better that the Peregrinos felt bad for their behavior enough to apologize...  Camino back on baby!
This was a very of feeling for me, part of me really really wanted to see what kind of punishment the new me could deal out, the other party of me was screaming that Peregrinos don't act this way.  Something guided the Peregrino side of me and this ended very pleasantly...
Ooh, but word spread apparently cause it read the morning buzz on the Camino.  Somehow, as stories go, it got embellished and I kept having to disarm it with facts as we wandered they the morning pilgrim train.
So, I wrap up THAT little adventure with internal pride, I didn't let bullies rule, but my head and heart diffused the situation and returned normalcy to the Camino...  Whew!  Godzilla apparently went back to sea.

WOW!

So, now onto today!  I JUST ROCKED MY CAMINO!  My party departed a good 15 minutes ahead of me (I told then to go on, I would catch up).  When ready, I blew out of the village, in the pitch dark and fog.  I excited town and took the trail up the hill.  I don't know if Camino Ray was right or not, but I really didn't have fear, i was just busting out that hill.  At least one critter scurried away in the fig (learned someone else saw a fox).  I started passing people, summited and was descending when I caught up with my group....   And passed them " baños in the next village! "...   I kept up this incredible energy the full 20km into Burgos, probably leaving my group to wonder if they should just let me go on. 
Walked along almost 6km of Riverside parkway into Burgos, as I got closer I started hearing " don't you want somebody to love, don't you need somebody to love... " playing rather loudly from somewhere down the path...  The pace got faster and I started singing, the poles might have been dancing as well!
I just into Burgos, the had some kinda road walk and at the finish they had a DJ and music...  I just stood there soaking it all in, I was dreading the city's energy, but this energy was satisfying.

After checking into our hotel (spoil time!). Double bed in Burgos €55, Peregrino rate!  Very nice room, we actually have soap and towels, a rare commodity for Peregrinos!

We later did the Burgos cathedral tour...  OK, this place long ago stopped being a place of worship and became a religious place of opulence and later a museum...  Do not get me wrong, it is just friggen AWESOME inside, but it is a religious museum, I really don't see how Raj worship can be conducted there anymore.  There were displays showing how out has grown over the centuries, just amazing, every cardinal had to outdo the previous one and build yet another chapel and burial tomb for themselves.  The artwork is phenomenal and blows the mind, the overload on the brain is not to be forgotten either.

Also, today my little girl Lee is moving out back at home.  My little girl is all grown up, I am so proud of her.  She is going to do great!

Today was like Wednesday, before sickness rippled thru the Camino, I HAVE MY CAMINO ON!!!  I even had tapas for dinner and churros con chocolate for dessert!
Tomorrow morning, were depart Burgos and start our approach to the Meseta, the upper plains and the party of the Camino where the mind gets its workout.  There is something inside me, it showed itself last night, it is going to be interesting to see how that develops, if it does.

Rocking the Camino!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Catching up on photos

FRIDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/uuHoiTWs6QnGACLE8

SATURDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/7AoPLaZzj1tCbqeL8

Saturday, September 19, 2015

Back on my feet!

Had a great nights sleep!  The dorm was pitch black with the lights off, it was awesome.  Camino Ray was to polite to tell me that with my stuffy nose, I did my fate share of snoring - Nancy on the other hand was honest enough to confess :).  Either way, I woke up at 5:55 very refreshed, just layed there waiting for the inevitable light from mobile phones.

Sure enough, a minute or two later, I could see faintly in the room, someone was checking the time on their phone.  A minute later it was brighter and soi on and so on till someone gave up cans turned on the overheads.

That brings up a good unwritten Camino/ rule.  Bed at 9, 10 at the latest and wake at 6am, that one is almost written in stone , just haven't found that stone yet.

Fully energized, I apparently flew up today's climb (250 feet) without realizing my speed, over the top, down into a dip and back up my energy wasn't flowing, it was pouring out.  Skip the energy I didn't expend yesterday, I poured out this morning.  We did the climbs and descents and a pit stop (need to tell you about that) and covered 13km in about 2:30...  That's a fast pace.

So, this rest stop...  We are flying down these forest roads and start you set the logs sticking out of the grounds in the distance.  As we get closer, it is a homemade rest stop with seats and benches crafted out of fell trees.  There is all this artwork also looks totempoles, and Peregrino silloettes and the like.  It would have been a sin to not rest in such a place built with so much love.  We used it for a quick snack and foot check.  Departing our spirits were even higher then before.

We took an extended break in San Juan de Ortega for a drink, water refill, destroy baños, and extensive foot  check.  We cleared the distance to the next village and as I looked over the valley, have serious consideration to blowing thru both villages, summiting the next ridge, and officially dropping into the Meseta, but we had friends in the 2nd village at an albergue. It was a good choice, we'll tackle Burgos and the Meseta tomorrow.

We are staying at a nice private albergue in Altapuerca and together with a lady from Quebec, made a pasta dish with lots of veggies...  It ended up being a LOT of food, the four of us consumed our lot and still had enough to pass around for at least another 4 servings.  Dessert was a light and dark chocolate bar broken into pieces.  The combined effect was a veritable pilgrim feast and the company was fun.  Now all I need is a grill, man I could escalate pilgrim food to untold levels if I just had access to a grill.

Life is good as a pilgrim, you get up, walk and walk and walk, get a place, do your chores, wash, eat, cleanup, contact family, and go to bed...  But you are part of a large group doing the same and the comradery is just awesome.  Heck, where else do you put 30 people in a room to sleep, snore, belch and fart?  I hear rumors of some municipal super-albergues with many many more beds in one room.  Either way, Camino is good.

So, I have been given some assorted nicknames: "mr fix-it", " happy ", but the most interesting I just earned typing this blog - " Godzilla! "...  See the are some French people here and they are just generally loud, no volume control, listening to music, etc...  Well a young lady was everything our small room (only 6 beds) and I had her open the door wide, much to everyone's surprise (mine included), I literally l loudly proclaimed that they needed to lower their voices, people ARE trying to sleep...  Thank you, gracious!"...  It worked for a while...  And apparently the Camino gifted me with a more outspoken talent...  Interesting, I'm going to see how that develops cause it kinda conflicts with the Peregrino mantra of acceptance and tolerance.

Anyways, 6am is coming early, I'm thinking of setting an alarm to make sure I am up...  You know, I am missing some good ol' fashioned music from my youth.  Thinking of something, " quiet riots come on felt the noise "....  Ooh shit, something is happening to me, and I an not sure if it is good or not, my adrenalin is PUMPING right now!  So, the four adult men are sitting In the kitchen being loud.  The young lady in there bunk below me goes out and tells then that they are both disrespectfully loud, one guy does a loud "LALALALA!"to emphasize the point quiet time starts at 10pm.  I jump out of my top loudly proclaiming "are they being disrespectful to her?!?!?! "And head into the kitchen where I am greeted with silence.  One of the guys, solidarity to emphasize his point, grand his guitar and goes outside strumming it, there was no language barrier when I said 6am will come all too soon if that is how we were going to handle this...  Then I promised to dismantle the guitar using his head...
It is quiet now....
Seriously, I don't know what came over me, but it wasn't a threat, i was going to liberally apply justice and all because one guy was disrespectful to a lady...

Ummmm...  Not sure if this new aggression is because if all the testosterone from the vigorous walking or if I am unlocking something inside....   I'll use the word "Interesting" to describe it for now.  Wonder if I'll wake up tomorrow handcuffed to a radiator in a Spanish jail.  Ooh, I told them they weren't Peregrinos and to get the heck of the Camino.

But it's quiet now, perhaps the guy is drunk on wine, but his buddies told him to be silent.

Well, this has been more interesting then usual...  Wonder if I'll be confrontational tomorrow?!  Till that question is answered I'm going to go to bed.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Friday, September 18, 2015

Belorado to Villafranka Montes de Oca

I think I fixed the comments problem, feel free to try.

Today's post starts last night.
We checked into a large private albergue, kind of industrial, but seemed fine.  Camino Ray was not feeling well from the weather beating we had, so he crashed at 7:30.  I crashed shortly after posting and contacting the family.

We didn't open any windows, cause the nighttime temps were 48°f and Camino Ray was already feeling a bit of a chill...  It was stuffy.  I woke up this morning completely stuffed up with a sore throat.  The stuffiness cleared as soon as I entered the clean air, but too late, sore throat!

Given the combination of Camino Ray's experience and my sore throat, we were not happy campers and just didn't have the energy in is to tackle the small climb (350 meters) and 12km to the next bed.  Just outside of town, a Landover type vehicle was slowly driving down the Camino road handing out tiny flyers for a new albergue in town.  We made a. decision to jump on it.  €10 scored a single bed in a 16 bed dorm with dividers!  Add to that we had several Camino friends in the same place, MEGA SCORE!  13.2km day, nice and easy, have about 540km to go.

The walk was actually very pleasant, even given our assorted health challenges.
The decision on Burgos has been answered for us, we will take our spare day for Burgos and use that to ease the walk into town into three days instead of two, AND we still have time to tour around Burgos.  Current plans call for us to arrive on Sunday, early day and have the rest of the day for touring.

If you are looking at the prescribed stages, we are 1/2 way thru stage 13...  You shouldn't use the stages as a rule, they are a guide only, I'm letting my Camino decide and its treating me very nicely!

It took almost two weeks, but Camino funk creaped in, and no shower was removing it...  No problem, go to the local shop, get some Camino soap (for hair, body, and clothes) and a tiny bottle of antiperspirant....  A tiny bottle with an overwhelming perfumey odor!  MISTAKE!  Immediate nasal attack, to late, it got into the shirt as well...  Ugh! Donativo left in the men's room, not going on THIS body again.

While walking today, I started to wonder, I am normally an emotionally private person, but have freely posted my emotions here...  The reason why is two fold, I want to capture those feelings for later, and it is important to me that prospective Peregrinos understand the full impact of such an immersive endeavor - this is not a vacation walk, but one of the oldest and largest pilgrimages.  Emotions are a huge part of the adventure.

Speaking of which, last night I mentioned that we had many single Peregrinos invited to join us at the dinner table language barrier be damned!  Today we saw the Russian lady as we were exiting town, she saw us and an immediate smile came to her face.  We all shared a quick hug before we departed company.  Later down the way, we crossed again, she was cracking some fresh nuts and was quick to share (declining due to sore throat, spoken in body language :) ).

The point, screw language barriers, we are all family!  A bigger point?  Should we go around hugging people all the time, probably not, should we open ourselves to others and invite people to share in our company and joy, absolutely yes!  We live in big cities, but are so lonely surrounded by people.  Here I am, an ocean apart, foreign country I have never been to, only speak "poko Español", and by myself and I couldn't possibly be less alone. 

That should cover today's ramblings, today's challenges have been more health then mental, physical, or spiritual.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

MOTIVATIONAL POSTER

84 YEARS OLD
14kg pack (~30 pounds)
818 km (~500 miles)



MAKES YOUR PROBLEMS FEEL MUCH MORE MANAGEABLE???

Thursday, September 17, 2015

Kevin's Camino and the blustery day.

Today, 25km, high temp while walking of 53°f, and 15mph headwinds with stronger gusts. That could be the whole post right there.  This stretch really didn't have much noteworthy, walked thru many small villages, so a part of today's trek went really smooth as you went thru a village and boom, another village.
Today's task was constantly trying to overcome the harsh weather conditions and make it to our hoped for destination.
What is my big decision right now?  Am I going to push to get to Burgos for Saturday?  Haven't decided, going to take it one day at a time.  Have a climb to do and some king stretches with no supports/villages to pass thru.
Had dinner tonight with Camino Ray, we had our Camino friends barge and get daughter join us and we invited the other Peregrinos who were going to dine alone to join us at the table.  We had 7 merry Peregrinos at the table eating as a Camino family.  Life can be good on Camino.
Something that is amazing and never ceases to amaze me is the volume of Peregrinos on the trail.  In many of my pictures you can see the pilgrim train stretching out into the distance ahead and behind me.  In the mornings, there is a mass exodus of Peregrinos from the cities and villages, as the morning gets on, it starts to stretch out, usually the next village has us re-congregating around a bar for breakfast.  The trail out of town tends to be less congested at this point as the train is stretching out, but you are never alone, just look at many of the trail pictures.
There are what I call pilgrim towns, the big spots where pilgrims tend to congregate in hostels/albergues.  You can usually see pilgrims swarming around the town square either enjoying a refreshment, scoring an early dinner, or shipping for supplies.  Some Peregrinos buy groceries ACS cook in albergue kitchens, others explore the town.
Most pilgrim hotspots offer a "pilgrim menu".  First choice is a choice of soup, salad, beans, or pasta.  Second choice is usually fish, chicken, pork, beef, and sometimes a vegetarian offering.  Dessert is almost always rice and milk, flan, ice cream, or fruit.  The menu is usually offered for €10 and comes with wine or bottled water and bread...  Lots of bread..   Seriously, this country LOVES their bread even more then their potatoes.
Other offerings at most bars, Tapas.  They range to varied to define, but I have had some really good tapas and pintxos.
Of course I had  a few that didn't get fully consumed... Like the one I was told that was pork, but not any cut that I knew of (it might have been stewed skin, either way, did not enjoy that one.
Then there was my temporary addiction to Spanish lemon soda " Lemonita' ", but I quit that habit before it got out of hand... Ooh my, that stuff is great.

So today wraps up my 13th day of walking and it is difficult to taking judge his far we have walked.  Signposts seen to indicate we are around 550km to go, the books not very clear, a pamphlet on albergues sends to indicate we are at 562km to go.  Either way, I have a golf 250km (150 miles) under my feet and the pace is quickening with more km covered each day.  Next week the Meseta and its long, flat expanse, is my challenge.  I may get to open up the speed a bit and put some km behind me.
This is it for tonight, going to get an early bed and get plenty of rest, going to try a pretty big stretch tomorrow.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Just a few photos today:
https://goo.gl/photos/uZQP6xK5JWWvqCWUA

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

A rebirth today

As, today's story actually started last night where the blog left off.
It is so true that the Spanish LOVE any excuse for a parade and party.  Heck, any ol' band just takes to the streets with no escort and they march away.  Last night left ought with a marching band parading thru town.  After that, much to my great amusement an apparent band was playing American music just out of sight down on the plaza near the river.  Eric Clapton and many others made their music list.  Funny, back at home I would have been livid at such a disregard for peace and quiet, but here in Spain, lovers of the party, I find it hard to be upset.  Perhaps it is because joy permiates the air, particularly around pilgrim albergues.
My friend Camino Ray and I just really enjoyed it, even given we were calling it a night.  If that wasn't enough, just before closing the shutters, ANOTHER band came parading thru!  This one reminded me if an alumni type band and HERE is the great thing, they stopped at the top of the plaza - The other band stopped and let them do their parade and pose for s group picture.  Thru then paraded away much to my amusement, I couldn't help it, i was laughing joyously with no signs of upset.  But wait, it gets better!  I finally make it to bed, lights off, earplugs almost in...  The school band comes parading back thru...  It was too much, we both started laughing and laughing at our nighttime lullaby.
Ah, that would be good enough, but there is more still!  11pm, thru the earplugs I hear BOOM!...... BOOM!...... BOOM! BOOM! BOOM!  Well I'm up, need to use the facility how, washing my hands I couldn't resist any longer, I opened the shutters over the sink and just watched the fireworks going off. Just laughing to myself with sheer joy, not a thread of anger, just joy.
Well, the towns bedtime antics were a prequel to as great nights sleep, washing up naturally at 5:59am to a 6:00am alarm...  That's the way to do it.
Find a little shop on town, the lady actually spoke better English then Spanish (she another to not being from Spain).  She freshly squeezed about 6 oranges into a frosted goblet, which I coupled with a real chocolate croissant...  Note, I don't know if it is the walking or what, but I have been LOVING orange juice lately, finding it very satisfying in many ways.  I think the best orange juice I have consumed on my life has been here, almost always fresh squeezed and very much sweeter and satisfying to the body - it really earns is nickname here of liquid sunshine.
With a great start to the day, we take off from Najera just energized and happy.  I noticeable aches and pains and high spirits.  We depart town and ascent a small hill, with the morning dawn we can see rain in the distance and the faint beginnings of a rainbow.  A rainbow that we first noticed around 8:00am and stayed with us clear thru Azofra and roll we stopped for lunch in Ciruena at 11:10.  The same rainbow that always seemed to arch over our ultimate destination in Santiago de Compostela.  As a group we were just in awe at such a long lasting and symbolic sight.  One of the group said that as a child he was told a rainbow is god's promise not to destroy the earth again.  I don't know about that, but I do know it was so uplifting, that I kept talking pictures to remind myself of its duration and brilliance.
That would make a great day in itself, but alas this day is a much longer story.  When people ask me how I first learned about the Camino, the assume it is from the movie "The Way" (which I love), but it is not true.  I first learned about it when Lee toured Franklin Pierce University.  You know where this is going now.  I'm walking along and come along a young gentleman, Luke.  We get taking and he says he is here with his school... Dead stop on the trail...  "May I ask what university?"...  " Franklin Pierce ". (OK, language filters temporarily overloaded here)... "No Fucking Shit!". We had a great conversation from there before parting to connect with out respective walking family (he is walking solo and has a group meetup spot in a few days).  My Camino walking family were happy and amazed to see the connection as to how I got started with Camino.
Lots more to go here, today is a big one.
So, a bit later I hear, "Is that you Kevin?", turning aroundI see it is Paul whom I did many training hikes with.  We traveled together they lunch and caught up on each other's Camino adventures.  He sadly has to do it in stages, and fears he will not get the same wholeistic gain as I am going for.
Lunch in Ciruena was at a golf country club who open their doors to Peregrinos gladly.  A large gathering a Camino Family around the table made for lots of joy as the days one and only rainstorm we had took place while we dined inside.
Back on the road, I was fully pumped full of energy and joy and was just bounding along at what must have been an incredible place because we got within sight of our destination, "Santo Domingo de Calzada', in no time flat!  The whole pilgrim train just seemed to be in high gear today and we collectively flew down the roads, everyone's spirits seemingly lifted as one.
We are starting at this wonderful place: "Public refuge of the Fraternity. This “pilgrims’ hotel” of the superlatives with elevator offers a posh accommodation to 211 pilgrims in 10 dormitories; very good kitchen, big common area, snoring room. In the yard of the refuge, the backup chicken crew recuperate, after performing their 14-day shift at the local cathedral" for €7.  Clean and well organized.  Happy pilgrims!
We even managed to score a pilgrim meal at 3:30 without having to wait till 7pm.  And guess what town has a little Chinese shop that seems extremely hard to get 2.3amp chargers?!?!?!  Yep, this little slice of heaven does and now u can use my phone on a charger and not watch the battery die.
OK, this is getting to a close soon.
Back at the albergue, Nancy finds out there is this international prayer service at 7am, attended by several members of my close Camino family and a few others.  The priest runs in late, snaps on the big overhead lights, days something about very busy, points to prayer sheets and flies out...  No one could figure out of her was coming back or not, so we took turns performing the service, each person reading a section in their closest native language.  English, French, and Italian prayers were spoken and upon completion we asked everyone if they were willing to share something that were happy about...  Universally everyone spoke how today was so uplifting and a Polish lady offered that today was a rebirth, which resounded positively with the small group.
So there you have it, a very long story on a day feeling like I was reborn.  I end my fat in Spain with earn feelings of safety and security for family and friends back at home and a feeling of certainty that alum will be well in the end for the many in need of prayers and support.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Navarrete to Najera

6:05am, up with no alarm.  On the trail by 6:45.  The one shop in town that opens at 6am for Peregrinos is pitch black putting us into a 8 km walk just to get breakfast.  Just outside of town, a car pulls up as the trail leaves the road, and a Spanish gentleman gets out and starts walking right besides us.  Turns out he speaks fluent English, can't to the states 3 separate times, and walks that section of the Camino every day.  A very pleasant conversation for several km before he turned around to return to his car.  After that we entered the next village and guess what the had in the bar?!?!  Fried eggs with bacon!  Ooh baby, two days in a row, the Gods must be happy with me.  Destroyed that plate and downed two orange juices.  Ooh yeah baby!
Funny how things work, that lifted my spirits quite a bit, buy as we returned to the trail, the thought entered my head, "I don't want to walk anymore."...  See, the breakfast lifted my spirits, but it reminded of all I have back at home...  So a double edged sword.  As I said before, I KNOW this week is emotionally tough, but that doesn't prevent the feelings.  Steadied with the knowledge that this is normal, I planted one foot in front of the other and walked right out of that town :).
Amazingly, I walked by a lady we had seen as a Peregrino and she was biking, but looking down.  We got talking about the emotions this week and she was so amazed to hear that she was not the only one.  As a point, we talked with many Peregrinos today and almost universally ask were struggling with emotions and alum were relieved to hear how normal this was.  It is amazing, knowing you are not alone gives you that energy to push thru the day :).
Also interesting, you know that feeling when you start something new, you are doing it, but you don't feel like you have earned the right yet to call yourself, In my case Peregrino, what you are doing?  Well that feeling solidly disappeared yesterday.  I ceased being a newbie Peregrino and became a full on Peregrino!  I executed my daily Peregrino routine without thought and just went about my Peregrino life.  That might play some into the feelings issue also, cause now there is no mental thought to my chores to keep me distracted, allowing me to think back to home and the things I miss, especially my family.
So, people reading this must think that av American in Spain, by himself, with these emotions would be a wreck, well not my experienced Camino friends, but uninitiated would.  However that is not the case, cause there is a Camino family here and while some people are on a Camino vacation, those "On Camino" are your Camino brothers and sisters and everyone helps everyone.
(OK, as I am writing this, i had to ask and look out the window to watch a high school band parade down the streets, just awesome - this country really likes any excuse for a parade!  Video should upload tonight I hope)
OK, back to that previous thought...
So you depart your start town and meet your first Camino family and many will become friends.  Sometimes your friends stretch away from you and other times they find you and photo-bomb your pictures of water fountains.  At any rate there are always people to talk to on Camino if you are willing and Camino brings out the best in humanity, and that is why when others think you are alone, you couldn't have more family save being back at your own home.

So, today's walk, after bacon and eggs just started getting harder, not that the trail was difficult, it wound thru vineyards mostly, but the body might be struggling likes the emotions, or the emotions are dragging the body down, either way, the 2nd half of the last leg was just a pain.  The knees were getting sore the get achy, etc.  I walk into Najera and am immediately overcome with "to much city" syndrome.  Luckily, the albergue is on they other side of the bridge, in a nicer area with a Riverside park advertised the street.  Tonight we didn't score down bunks, but a bunk in a separate room with this little terrace room looking out onto the park.  So, ever all I recovered nicely and even scored an early dinner!  Oh yeah experienced Peregrinos, I got dinner at 5pm!  No waiting for 7pmv or later for me today...  WOOT!
I have to say, it is a special treat when I wake up in the morning and get to hear from family and friends back home, gives me that push to get going on the next days adventure.  Speaking of that, by at least one guide I am 1/4 the rest thru!  HECK YEAH!  Once I get thru the emotional stage, I should be entering the meseta, the upper plains. Where I am told you either love it out hate it - Time will tell.

Well, this has rambled on long enough and its starting to approach bedtime.  This Peregrino is physically, mentally, and spiritually exhausted tonight - Throw at me what you must Mother Camino, this Peregrino doesn't quit anywhere near this easily.  Tomorrow I'll be back walking ever so closer to Santiago with every footstep!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

(I can still hear the band playing!)

PHOTO DUMP TIME!
SUNDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/VkLMb5vYJHkgJwqL9

MONDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/tJPciLLNwnFV23ZA7

TUESDAY :
https://goo.gl/photos/rGNRbKDv4PRq5yZz6

Monday, September 14, 2015

Viana to Navarrete.

Day 10 of walking:

So today started a little on the slow side compared to recent starts, but the albergue had a breakfast with note then toast. They actually had packages of mini muffins and cold cereal.

We struck out and soon entered the vineyards and just served to fly, arriving in Logrono around 10am and promptly were greeted by a pilgrim information center!  Like a tourist information center, only for pilgrims.  And a restroom with soap and hand dryer! - man they spoil pilgrims in that town!

We started across town following the trail and entered the church square, while taking a picture of the water spigot, is happily photo-bombed by Melanie for Alabama, who were hadn't seen since the day we left Roncesvalles.  We had a great chat and then we all continued out separate Caminos.  A short block later and the bit lace from my right boot caught in a latch on the left boot...  It was a most graceful forward fall, dampened with the hiking poles...  Camino injury, check (blisters are their own category).
Feeling very much the desire to be back on the remote Camino trails, we continued to march thru town, taking a detour to the Spanish post office, we found it closed.  Feeling emotionally stressed, I felt the need to get the hell out of Dodge...  Well until we walked past "The Drunken Duck"...  The restaurant that has:
One egg on toast
3 strips thick bacon
Pile of hash browns
A grilled hotdog, nicely cutup prior to grilling
And backed beans.
The English breakfast they called it. With cafe con leche all for €3.80!!!  I cannot even begin to describe how spiritually uplifting that was.

Back on the Camino, were were crossing a side street and this elderly Spanish lady saw us "Peregrinos! "...  Now I could pick out parts of what she said, but she gave us both hugs and kisses on the both cheeks.  She was saying something that we guessed was her pride in us walking to "Santiago!", She Obviously held Peregrinos in high regard.  My pack felt 10 pounds lighter (I checked, everything was where it should be :) ).

Later on, three elderly gentleman whistled and pointed the right was around a park.
Even later another Spanish elder exclaimed "Peregrino!", and blew a kiss.
Wow did that ever help give me a huge c emotional uplift, all the goodwill towards fellow man.

The trail leaving town is beautiful and runs for kilometers thru a parkway, by a park around what I assume is the public water supply (LOTS of large carp) and into another vineyard.  Leaving that we came to the fence bordering a highway for a while.  Here Peregrinos take sticks they pickup and weave crosses into the fence.  Thousands of crosses on this fence, and I certainly put mine there as well. The arrival in Navarrete was uneventful and our nightly accommodations are awesome.

Spent some time talking with family and went to the beautifully adorned church (the whole alter area is adorned with gold!) and used that time to pray for the well-being of many sick people know and love and for a recently deceased friend of my father-in-law.

An awesome assortment of spoon-tapas made an awesome dinner.  Later I learned that to order absenth it doesn't translate well into Spanish.  So you translate " Green liquorish liquor".  That makes a lightbulb go on, this tiny wine bottle looking thing comes up from a hidden drawer under the bar and given a gratis taste of "orujo de hierbas"...  Heaven in a glass!  Quick trip to the Pharmacia, which the bar owner called to make sure they were open for us, and I was back for a full shoot of "orujo de hierbas"...  Wow!  Not something you shoot, you sip this and enjoy...  Let says it makes you hallucinate, but I saw nothing out of the ordinary, just the albino pink elephants, she must have her facts crossed.

Just have to say, today the emotions are more prominent then before, my low was feeling the need to get out of the heavy population area, but at the same time they have me my high as well, as they demonstrated the best part of humanity.
The weather has been incredible, most days are 22c (kids 70s) with enough overcast you don't bake in the hot sun.

(photos are not fully backed up yet for today, bit here is yesterday's) https://goo.gl/photos/uSTf4qvF9k4GGi5h6

Beth Camino!
Kevin.

Sunday, September 13, 2015

This is my Camino

This is my Camino.  There are many like it, but this one is mine.  It is my life.  I must master it as I must master my life....

I was thinking about that on and off and it seems oddly accurate as it seems to underscore my previous comments on how personal each Camino really is.  It also echoes the pride I have in conquering each obstacle mother Camino throws at me.

If Is common amongst people leaving home for various reasons, that the first week is physically challenging, the 2nd is emotionally challenging, and after that you even out.  This happens pretty much universally across military, people with
Jobs that take then away from home, and not to be left out, people on Camino.  The first week has certainly between physically demanding with Mother Camino dishing out punishment upon punishment.

Today started early, leaving at 6:30 and absolutely hammering out the trail to Torres Del Rio, all the while remembering the warning about has the second stage LOOKS easy, but in reality is a beater.  We stopped at a supermarkedo (a very tiny store), bought food for breakfast and lunch.  The owner was even nice enough to provide a banyos that had soap, water, and paper towels!!!  Three luxuries on the Camino fit sure.
So along the 2nd leg, getting my daily dose of mother Camino's punishing lessons, 1/2 way up a steep climb, I momentarily had a 2nd week emotional challenge.  Now it was fleeting as I am dedicated to this course, but also interesting in that it proves the earlier comments about separation.  For a fleeting moment, i was just done with the grueling treck.  Now's it was fleeting and I gathered myself, but it reminded me of why I am here.

We checked into Izol Albergue in Viana and did our regular pilgrim chores (sharing a room with only 17 other pilgrims, a quiet night) and was told to seek out g food earlier then later as there was some festival in town...
It is worth noting, the Spanish LOVE an excuse to party and this is "Fiestas de la Virgin de Nieve", celebrated in a small running of the bulls and followed up , not with a bull fight, just more of a pissing off of the bulls!  Entertaining without the killing and harm to the animal.  Seriously, it was as awesome as it sounds.  Mother Camino knew I was over the physical part and was entering the emotional phase and she handed me this city wide celebration and it was something I was quietly bumming that I would miss...  Had I fought my Camino, I would have missed this special treat.
I still missed my family, but my spirits are lifted from this treat.
As to how the Camino is changing me, no measurements are being taken, but I suspect new t-shirts in my future - with Camino designs to remind me of my journey and to keep the Camino alive when I return home.
This wraps up day 11 on Camino and my 9th day walking.  For those keeping score (which you shouldn't) this puts me on stage 7, but I listened to my body and the Camino and did two stages in parts and got a fabulous reward and hugh spirit lift.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Saturday, September 12, 2015

What the heck am I doing here!?

No, that is not me asking the question, but rather answering the many people back home.
Am I here for religious, spiritual, mental, physical, emotional, offer other reasons...   The answer is yes and no, the answer is either much more complicated or simpler, depending on your experience and outlook.
"I am on Camino" is the real honest answer, there is no other fitting answer.  Camino is all that and then a ton more.  On Camino you automatically belong to the Camino family, everyone "on Camino" is part of your Camino Family.  On Camino you give without expecting, share just because, help because someone needs it and when you need it, it is there.
I know many people try to achieve this in their lives, but there is this place, called "The Camino" where this has physically manifested itself and is more tangeable then a concept.
Case in point, trying to hit the highlights without excess detail.  Camino Ray and I reserve two single rooms at a hostela in Los Arcos, why, because the days walk was going to be hard, and we were not interested in a bed race.  We strike out at 6:20am in the pitch black and light rain (heavy enough to warrant wearing the rain poncho, now named the oven oven basting bag) and make the Irache wine fountain by 7:10 (with a breakfast stop along the way).  By headlamp enjoying a shot of terrible terrible wine, but it was free from a spigot on the outside of the building - Camino tradition, Check!  Anyways back to my long story, short version, getting long. I bought a shot glass from the bedding machine, for my shot, washed it in the water spigot, and passed it around, why not, I'm not going to carry that in my pack (wonder if it's still there?).  Later on, we stop in Azqueta for a break and snack (delicious fresh squeezed to order orange juice) and this pilgrim had lost her rain poncho and pack cover yesterday on the trail - gone.  She bought a cheap plastic poncho to get thru, but it was ripping.  Some duct tape from my pack and we bandaged it back into serviceable condition.  She was super grateful, but I reminded her that we are all Camino family, and she was my Camino sister and as such we look out for everyone.  Later on, Camino Ray and I, having over estimated the size of our Boccadillos, gladly shared then in out impromptu picnic spot along a 13km stretch of farmland.  Also sharing a bar dispenser can of pickles and bag of chips amongst our Camino family, some we meet before, others we just meet, most were may not see again - didn't matter, the sharing as a family happened, There in the middle of nowhere.  (OK, screw it, it is going to be a long story, sorry but I am going someplace with this).  So, fast forward to our arrival at out hostela and a hard time communicating, the hostel people bring us to our "double room", seeing a queen bed we inform the owner that no way are we sleeping in the same bed, were may be walking together, but that was a little to close.  We point to a bedroom with bunks and that is when the owner says " no, you get all the rooms "....   This is the Camino Magic here, we look around, he gave us his big suite with FOUR bedrooms!  A queen, try singles, and a bunk, for the price we would have paid for two singles!  " we full, special rate for Peregrinos! ".  Well, image he look on the young Canadian Peregrino who walked in behind us with no reservation when he was suddenly brought up to our suite and has his own room.  Camino Magic just oozing right there, and more so when we let the albergues in town know we had a bunk for tired Peregrinos, which was filled by two Canadian Peregrinos, desperate enough to check the police for a spot.
So, there you have and example of what happens DAILY on Camino, this Camino Magic pours out and there are Camino Angels EVERYWHERE.  Being here on Camino is like being part of the best of the best of humanity, and the more you give, the more you receive.
So, yeah, " I am on Camino " is the best way to describe my journey.

It's funny kinda, mother Camino is not kind, she beats the Peregrinos and done do not rise to the challenge and abandon Camino, mostly because they are not really ready for their Camino.  But the more she beats the stuffing out you, the more she cares for you as well.  Those on Camino for her lesson get it in good shape, but they get her love and caring also - as a mother does.  And one faulty lesson is, if you don't NEED something, doing bring it.  Over and over the lesson on simplification continues .

Well, that about does it for tonight.  I'm tired, doing know how tangling this really is and don't know what grammatical errors are plastered all around, but that is not going to stop me from going to bed.

Photo dump time (2 days):
https://goo.gl/photos/hyBQReFyrxPCLwxK7

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Yes, That gentleman is in his 80s, with a 23kg pack carrying his wife's burden as well - because that is his cross/burden...  Need inspiration, he's right there.

Friday, September 11, 2015

Maneru to Estelle

Struck out at 6:30 with headlamps on, flying by Cirauqui in short order, making tracks to Lorca and enjoying breakfast at 8:15, before the cook even arrived.  Couldn't argue with the FRESH squeezed orange juice, black tea, and Chocolate croissant all for €6.
Somewhere between there and Villatuerta I managed to pass Camino Ray who had such out ahead of me.  We reconnected on the way our of town and walked together to Estella with the intention of just stopping for lunch, but as we checked out the albergue situation, we did not feel comfortable risking a10km hike with so few accommodation choices and no reservations available.
Tonight is going to be interesting, we are staying in the municipal refuge in town, our room has 24+ beds in one large room - Ooh what a Camino tradition this is, don't think it's a treat, but for €6 it is what it is.  But hey, I have earplugs, and I'll be competing for loudest snorer in the room.

Now tomorrow is going to be something.  Start the day off in the city then head out to the Irache winery and their wine fountain for an early morning tasting.

So, in my solo walking times I have given to conversing with Mother Camino, feeling her that she can keep throwing obstacles at me, but I won't cave in, THIS Peregrino is going to the finish.

I can say, that every day, with every step, I feel better, stronger, and have have
more stamina.  The backaches i an working thru, looking at my belongings and figuring out if I am really using then or not, going to ship ahead to Santiago a bit and rearrange the pack.

Ooh, and I am apparently getting known as "a machine", cause I just won't quit!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Thursday, September 10, 2015

Zariquiegui to Maneru

Up at 5:30, on the trail with headlamp and poncho at 6:30, luckily it did not do much more then sprinkle and then dissipate.  Summited Alto de Perdon at 7:30 and let out a shout if pure joy that was heard back in the little village we started from (bringing much joy to those not yet started).  I cannot describe the joy of overcoming yet another obstacle mother Camino threw at me!
As I walked I was talking to myself telling the Camino that she was not going to get the best of me.  The one sided conversation got a little raw at times, but it drive me onwards.
The descent was terrible, with hard rains earlier this year washing out much of the trail and making the trail in worse shall then before - Many locals warning about it.  Camino Ray and I took out sweet time descending and burnt some trail once we got level ground.  Making it to Puente la Reina in time for early lunch, a Racione and Coca-Cola light for €4 which filled me...  Where else can you get something so delicious, with a beverage, for around $4.50 US?
Crossed the pilgrim bridge in Puente ls Reina with joy and satisfaction and made tracks, enjoying the little things one does not normally notice.  However Mother Camino had one more challenge at days end, a hard climb out of a valley.  Upon summiting we choose to call it a day at a sweet little Albergue in Maneru.
Some interesting observations, Camino really makes you think about all the little details in your day, bathroom with toilet seats are a luxury along with soap and especially paper towels.  All lights are on
Touch timers or motion activated.  The afternoon breeze gets chilly and it does it quick, so you makes sure your warm clothes is the first on the lines to dry.
Camino is definitely an experience that transcends just walking, the Spanish people live and care for Peregrinos and guide you back to the Camino if you are lost, even if you intend on it.  The best part of humanity is on display daily and even mother Camino, with her physical challenges, provides for the Peregrinos, not what they want, buy what they need.

Today's photo dump:
https://goo.gl/photos/1Pt38Tege578gkG66

Signing off for tonight,
Buen Camino!
Kevin

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Pamplona to Zariquiegui

SHORT day today, 12km.  Started the accent to Alto de Perdon and my back started aching, the more I climbed, the more it ached.  Entered into this little hamlet and filled my water at the spigot.  Decided to enter the little church and spent a while admiring the place.
When I left, my friend Camino Ray was just arriving and was checking out his blisters.

I walked ahead a bit and immediately found this little bar/albergue.  Went in and he had beds for €10. My back was aching so much, that barring bedbugs or some similar horrible situation, I was staying.  Turns out it's a new albergue and clean.  Spent some extra time chatting with family and just enjoyed a less hectic day.  The pilgrim menu was good and satisfying.  The company of people is really great here.

Today's photo dump :
https://goo.gl/photos/oTz9gyCGP3HfLYr36

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

The thrill of victory and the agony of da' feet!

To sag wraps up my fourth straight day of walking.  Up and over the Pyranese and down into Pamplona.  They had some festival tonight, sender to be kid focused, they were EVERYWHERE - like the running of the bulls, only without the bulls.

Food is not something lacking for Peregrinos and I have found the pilgrim communal meals to be delicious and full of great company.  I could write and write about the many people on Camino, but there just is not time.  Suffice it to say I am never alone, my picture links will show that.

So, here is a typical day's schedule:
6:00 am, wake-up, not optional as someone is walking then and making noise, pretty much everyone wakes.
Get dressed, brush teeth, pack-up everything
start walking right away and have breakfast in as hour or so, or your albergue has breakfast.  You better like cafe conñn leche and toast w/jam either way cause that is breakfast
Walk a few hours, this is your walking, it is still cool (and dark) during this time and you make good time.
Take a break (today was pizza at El Horno - Outdoor wood fired pizza ovens).  During break you check your feet, socks off, let everything breathe.  Don't get to settled.
Walk some more, stop again in 2 hours or so.  Refill water, check feet, eat lunch or snack.
Walk to your destination, walking at the end of the day just drags on and on, cause you are really done, but can't stop.
Get to your albergue, sign in, shed your boots at the boot track and poles in the pile bin.  Get bed in room with MANY other people.  Forget any insecurities, everyone has to change.
Destroy toilet.
Shower, really long if you don't have a timed shower.
Hand wash your clothes in a sink (yes, with the same bar you washed your body and hair with) and put them out to dry - Some albergues have washers and dryers, you can share capacity with other Peregrinos.
Now, now you finally some time to talk to family, update blogs, and consider meals.  Albergue meals are fun, and so far very nice (all you can drink wine, it's cheap, but it's there) or you get your own.  Some bars offer a pilgrim menu and some albergues have kitchens for use.
Brush teeth
Pass out till tomorrow's 6am alarm.

PHOTO DUMP TIME:

SATURDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/iCmo8iS6kuJvZy71A

SUNDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/K2aWKk1WkjCKMBmJA

MONDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/XahH1ULRLo46LNJM8

TODAY : https://goo.gl/photos/yBkvDFxVwiU2QYxK7

Sunday, September 6, 2015

The Pyranese!

I DID IT!  I FRIGGEN DID IT!
Boy only did I really uphill from Orisson to only 3.5km to Roncesvalles (for the record, pronounced Ron-çes-bay-yez - yeah, I asked a hospitalerio).  The last leg, Downhill!  Downhill over loose rocks!
None of that matters, cause -I- made it.
See, today's journey was mentally fulfilling - I came to the conclusion that I am on Camino and I am not competing with anyone else for bragging rights.  Plain and simple today I had a challenge and I met it head on and surprised myself and apparently many others at my dedication and stamina on this task.
So, -I- made it over the Pyranese and I won't judge my accomplishment on any other persons accomplishments, that is their victory for them to hold proudly just like I am going to hold this accomplishment proudly.
Speaking of which, they is nothing like walking into a building and having friends you made stand-up and cheer because the are happy you made it.
My Camino family grows.

Buen Camino!

SJPdP to Orisson.

Plain and simple, it's a ball-buster!  Simply the hardest piece of three Camino, right out of the gate.

OK, not RIGHT out of the gate, 5km in, and you are thinking "this ain't so bad'...
  HA-HA!  That's what the Camino WANTS you to think, then WHAM! - THE CLIMB!
Ooh it looks innocent enough, nice switchbacks and all.  400+++ meter CLIMB and they cram it into 2km...  The owner of Orisson is a genius, cause you are spent by the time you get there and you round the corner and you see this little piece of paradise!
The pilgrim dinner is an awesome event and the food is really good and plenty.  Our menu was vegetable pure soup (yum!  Had it for a late lunch also when I arrived) for an starter and many pilgrims would have been happy with that and bread.  Then came out a mixture of peas, carrots, and potatoes with a light gravy.  The meat was roasted chicken thighs and drumsticks with a crispy skin and delicious herb coating.  Dessert was either flan or a pastry pie with a custard and almond filling (yeah, I got that one).  But more important is all the pilgrims dining together, many. Like myself, sitting next to total strangers and making friends.
My dorm had six beds (3 bunks) split 3 gentlemen and 3 ladies.  Hardly any snoring at all, just dead tired sleeping. 

Saturday, September 5, 2015

Saint Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

Yesterday was a whirlwind day with travel and arrival in SJPdP.  Meet so many friendly people and just had a great time.
Just before bed I heard that my good friend and coworker Ray was in a car accident, luckily he is relatively ok (he had just picked up food, just got into his van, hadn't even buckled in or anything, and WHAM hit from behind by sunshine texting).

Today is a short walking day - 7.2km (4.3 miles), but with 600 meter elevation gain.

Shootouts to ALL the many people who worked with me to help me get ready.
Tina, Lee, and Jasmin: first and foremost the most important people enabling my journey.  Even though they don't completely understand the calling, they know for me the calling was a shouting.  They accepted and embraced my need to do this and accepted the challenges associated with being without me during this pilgrimage. They really are the most important people in my life and the amount of trust and faith they have in me humbles me and encourages me to be a better person.

My coworkers and employer who are also key to whacking this journey.  They are all stepping up and doing extra to handle my absence.  So many people came forward to make this happen.  My supervisor Matt for not only accepting this, buy for encouraging me.  Ray for picking up all the work in my absence and being a great friend.
Extra shoot-out to Arne, who helped me break conventional hiking rules and therefore enabled me to do this.

My friends at the Y, for working with me tirelessly for a year and a half helping me get myself ready for the demands this journey will demand.  Thank you Kelly, Chuck, Brock, Mike, and everyone else.

My family, for all their encouragement and support, especially my mom who had been a big fan of my journey since she first heard about it.

My many friends from American Pilgrims on Camino, both experienced and planning.  Their friendship and advice has helped a lot.

And everyone else who supported me, if I left anyone out it certainly was not intended!  (I am typing this on a phone, so I can't type as fast as I think.)

3 1/2 years in the making, and I'm here.  My mom correctly says, it is never too late to chase your dreams - Dream being chased :).

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Friday, September 4, 2015

A Camino moment

So, I was out solo, scouting the rating establishments (OK, most don't start EARLY service until 7pm, more are at 9pm).  I was standing by a little cafe that served all day, reading the menu, and an older lady asked if I wanted to join her.  Who wants to eat alone, not most pilgrims, so I accepted...  Holy Shit, we both had so much to talk about in the Autism arena, she said I was the first person she has ever talked to that "got it".  We both enjoyed our meals and promised to finish out stories should out paths cross on the Camino again... 
Seriously, how do two strangers, on similar journies, just bunk into each other.  This town is full of pilgrims.
After we talked, she reaffirmed what I already knew, I have fantastic kids and a wife.  She could think of no other relationship, other then one so solidly grounded, that would support my journey.

OK, I threatened not to get into an emotional blog, but damn, I always read about Camino Magic, but so much and in my first few hours!?!?!?

I always said it started as a quiet calling and became a deafening roar, I am beginning to see why.

Buen Camino
Kevin

P.S. apparently my French and Spanish is good enough to get me by and earn some smiles at the same time.

P.P.S. Yeah, I know I'm tired and that elevates emotional states, but damn!

Here, tired & wide awake, excited & scared

Already chatted with three Australians, two Canadians, and two other Americans all entering town at the same time.  It is AWESOME to be in a place that is full of pilgrims ready to embark.  This town has a magic in the air, I have a great hotel room, and I didn't think it was so possible to have so many friendly people help me in one day!

Today's phrase, and those to the end of my Camino is "Buen Camino" (Good  way/road/trail) - A universal greeting and parting for pilgrims.  Hearing it said warms the soul as the words have somehow elevated beyond words, perhaps it is the earth smile and genuine feeling behind it that makes it so special.

My day started on Sept 3 @6:30am and will probably run till today around 3:00pm est (9:00pm local time)

Link to some photos:
https://goo.gl/photos/i3EuNdfDmmuQ2sX3A