The Camino is a fluid thing, you can fight it or you can embrace it. Fighting the Camino never wins, embrace the challenge and modify as needed. Camino hands you a sprained ankle yet you still want a Compostella, move up to the official "start" marker (to get a Compostella you have to walk the LAST 100km or bike the last 200km) which are well marked.
Yesterday, after the struggles on the missing paths and the ankle sprain, we agreed to take two easy days and move ourselves up to the 100km marker. Yesterday was took a train from Viana do Castelo to Valenca and in the process meet a fine young German peregrino, Jannik who was likewise recovering from ankle injuries and also moving ahead. The three of us quickly became a small pack as we moved across Valenca, thru the old Town, and to the bridge connecting Portugal and Spain.
The crossing from Portugal to Spain was probably less ceremonious then my crossing from France to Spain, which as you recall was a castle grate. The crossing this time was some painted boot marks and a line... Either way, it was still kinda cool to stand with one foot in each country for a few seconds and soak it all in... A completely powerful line, only in the mind... All of nature, all around us, had zero regard for this man-made boundary. You could, however, hear the Portuguese national guard breathe out a sigh of relief and while the Spanish national guard took in a heavy breath.
What scored a private room in a clean but dated ablergue and net some wonderful people at the same time who were amazed we hadn't called it quits, just modified the plan (OK, in fairness, the only plan is to get to Santiago).
We struck off and toured the beautiful cathedral before settling down at one of the only restaurants open at 7pm (the rest at 8pm), a wonderful Italian shop that had three of the many foods I desired since leaving Spain 3 years ago.
KAS LIMÒN!... Like San Pellegrino lemon, only the Spanish version. Not overly sweet, packed with a lemon punch, and just very satisfying. It is probably a good thing this is only available in Spain cause if it was, I would be drinking it all the time at home if it was available.
ENSALADA MIXTA: OK, in fairness, you CAN make it at home, and I have, but it just isn't the same.
ORUJO DE HEIRBUS: This is what you get when you ask the gods what you should drink for dessert. It is yellowish-green, potent, just a bit sweet, and delicious!
Tina keep saying I was like a kid in a candy shop, which is probably very accurate. 7-weeks living this culture and then 3-year withdrawal ...
Today began very foggy, that heavy fog that makes you wonder if it is raining and not just foggy. We took a bus to the 100km maker receiving Buen Caminos from the bus staff and from a friendly local who helped us navigate the bus system.
A short walk of only 8km is all we did today, yet with the lifting fog and encroaching heat, it somehow felt much longer. We arrived in Mos Spain and discovered a new albergue across from the municipal, which was under renovation. The lady who runs it, while speaking zero English and sputtering Spanish endlessly, is a great hostess and send to love her job and peregrinos.
So, how was Portugal? We both really loved it, the Portugués hospitality was awesome however the coastal littoral route is still very-much a work in progress and any foot injuries are amplified by the constant cobblestone beatings.
Just crossing into Spain the whole Camino took ona whole new feeling... Or maybe old feeling... Either way, it was like the Camino was waiting there to embrace me and welcome me back... It finally FEELS like a Camino Experience and I can feel the stresses of worrying about the trail melt away...
I'M BACK WITH REINFORCEMENTS!!!
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