Solitude

One of the things I was really looking forward to on this trip was the solitude on the trail. The past two days I have been blessed with that. Well if yesterday and today I was up and on the trail at 7:00 a.m. which is before sunrise in Portugal. Yesterday I had a solid hour and a half of peace and quiet along the trail before I started meeting up with other pilgrims. Today I had a solid 3 hours before I saw my first pilgrim.

Both days walks were along the ocean with plenty of boardwalk and promenade to walk on. The early morning peace and tranquility has given me time to decompress and relax. During these times of solitude I was able to become one with the tail. I use this time as an almost meditative state while moving along the Camino.

Both yesterday saw about 22 km of trail go zipping by underneath my feet each day - and each day every part of my mind body and soul with the exception of my left heel had more in the tank to give. Unfortunately the left heel is the one calling the shots right now and 22 km is where it said enough. I could push a little bit past 22 but I would pay the rest of the day and if I pushed a lot past 22 I would not walk the next day cuz the heel wouldn't let me. Thanks to a wondrous combination of adjustments, taping, and European medicine, I am able to push my heel to around 22 km each day and still have enough in the tank to do it again the next day.

I have been cruising along the Camino, probably at a pace faster than I should have been, but my body has found a comfortable Pace in getting it to slow down is difficult. I find in the early morning I can easily put 10 to 14 km behind me with barely any concern. As a matter of fact this morning I did 15 km before stopping for my very first break in breakfast. The problem comes in that my natural pace is faster than my heel would like and at the end of the day I find myself consciously having to temper my pace to make my heel happy again -okay, I'm not making my heel happy I'm just shutting it up for the time being.

Physical impairments aside, the time on the Camino has been very restorative to mind, body, and soul. This helps me to live in the moment not worrying about other issues and stressors other than my immediate needs at that immediate moment. I would love to say I am a complete free spirit, but the above mentioned heel issue does present a small logistical issue for me everyday where I have to find an acceptable location to stop without angering left heel.

Yesterday's walk I had tentatively set my sights on an albergue 2 km past where I ultimately stopped - which, left heel, would have been upset but would have cooperated with. Unfortunately words started spreading through the Camino pipeline that the albergues in that town we're full, and online reservation systems confirmed. More than willing to push on to the next available location, the heel demanded a much sooner stop. I ultimately ended up at a hotel that offered a pilgrim discount. It ended up being a wonderful stay as the room was on the same ground level as the pool and had a small patio in back. With access directly to the pool deck. 

As a bonus the room had two single beds. Remembering my friend Charlton I'm struggling with his knee and was back aways, I reached out to him and offered him use of the other bed in the room which he graciously accepted.

After he was settled in, we went to the neighborhood Cafe and met one of the most energetic people on the community I have met so far.

she spoke about as much English as I speak portuguese... If you think that stopped the conversation, you are so wrong! We both know just enough of each other's language and with generous use of translators had a wonderful conversation. She was a source of positive energy and cheer that could have brightened the darkest soul - fortunately for her, she met her a match in cheerness and energy. She served a wonderful meal which we absolutely couldn't finish. She then told us about the rooms that she had for rent, which we told her she was a little too late, because she wasn't advertised on any of the main systems. She did inform us that she was in the works trying to get that done. She definitely would have been a choice for a stay had I known she was there

I'm not sure on my poor friend Charlton knew what to do. I don't think he is used to such high levels of energy. He did seem to otherwise enjoy himself.

Today, was another early rise and early on the trail. I stated before, most of the day was spent in solitude, only seeing around 12 pilgrims the entire day, and most of those where after I entered Esposende. Tonight I am a few kilometers outside of esposende had a small little "bed and breakfast" which would be better described as a high end albergue - again in a room with two single beds. Charlton and I decided last night we were going to let the main pack of pilgrims out of Porto thin out. We have a wonderful, if simple room. Again with a little back patio overlooking the ocean and the trail as it passes not even 400 meters from here.

Due to my early departure and unfortunate aggressive pace, I made it here for 12:30. I was able to meet the acquaintance of a wonderful gentleman originally from Brazil (side note: a lot of people in this area seem to be from Brazil including the people working the petrol station next door and the people working the b&b here).  My new friend invited me to join him at a small little cafe table outside the station where we had a wonderful chat. He is living here right now working as a truck driver, driving all around Europe. He was fascinated with the concept of the Camino, get had never really engaged a pilgrim while walking it. I was more than happy to share my extensive knowledge with him!

Just some pictures I took today that I found interesting or amusing.