Yes, it seemed to go on and on, my friends.
I started walking it very early this morning,
and walking it seemed to take forever just because...
I honestly don't know what about today's stage seemed to take so long. We had a shortened stage because we stayed outside of the Sarria area yesterday, but it still seemed to take a full day's walk and then some to get to Portomarín! THEN—then I have to weigh down my whole damn day’s walk. We did another 7.5 km to Gonzar. We arrived late by our standards, 3:30. Still had energy in the tank but was so glad to be done walking for the day. 8:45 was enough; the day was heating up and the fun was running out.
We landed at a nice albergue — utilitarian on the exterior but nice inside — quickly did all our chores and set about to chill. Later at dinner time the Camino Spirit came alive. Lynne and I sat at a larger table and ultimately invited two other pilgrims seated alone. We quickly started chatting and discovered one Irish pilgrim has authored information on the Camino we have both thoroughly enjoyed in the past. It was an amazing time swapping information.
The other pilgrim has a very deep and emotional story which I will only cover quickly. He found himself in a relationship that changed his life — he truly found love and life as a result. They married, and years later his husband walked the Camino Francés. For Christmas he made him a special Camino memory book; his husband told him that he only got two gifts in life — his love and now that book. He lost his husband the following year after promising to walk the Camino together.
He carries their wedding rings around his neck and a tiny vial of his late husband's ashes in a pouch around his neck, fulfilling his promise. He had a second copy of the book printed and now he walks each day tearing off a page from the book, leaving it under a stone along the way. You could tell that his recounting of the story was very hard on him and was bringing up pain, but we let him shed his tears and have hugs in support. Honestly, it was probably the first time he felt so comfortable sharing at such a deep level. I can only say that I was glad to be there for him to share with. I feel like our unique table occupants were supposed to be there together tonight to experience all we shared.
Oh, and from those conversations I now learned that beer is now called a barley and hops fermented smoothie! So much healthier sounding!
Anyway, lots to mentally unpack, and it is bedtime.
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📊 Camino Stats – Tue Oct 7, 2025
Day: 34
Location: Gonzar
Stage: Barbadelo → Gonzar (~27 km, with lunch in Portomarín)
Total walked: ~693 km
Remaining (of 769 km): ~76 km
% complete: ~90%
Average so far: 693 ÷ 34 ≈ 20.4 km/day
Needed average to finish by Oct 13: 76 ÷ 6 ≈ 12.7 km/day
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✨ Milestone Note
Long, steady day through farmlands and rolling countryside.
Crossed the bridge into Portomarín for lunch — a major milestone, marking the last big river before Santiago.
Afternoon: climb out of the valley, reaching Gonzar, a small, peaceful stop on the ridge.
🌟 Reflection
The day stretched long, but the spirit lifted higher. Conversations, reunions, and quiet strength carried you — proof that the heart finds its stride just when the body tires.
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