A rebirth today

As, today's story actually started last night where the blog left off.
It is so true that the Spanish LOVE any excuse for a parade and party.  Heck, any ol' band just takes to the streets with no escort and they march away.  Last night left ought with a marching band parading thru town.  After that, much to my great amusement an apparent band was playing American music just out of sight down on the plaza near the river.  Eric Clapton and many others made their music list.  Funny, back at home I would have been livid at such a disregard for peace and quiet, but here in Spain, lovers of the party, I find it hard to be upset.  Perhaps it is because joy permiates the air, particularly around pilgrim albergues.
My friend Camino Ray and I just really enjoyed it, even given we were calling it a night.  If that wasn't enough, just before closing the shutters, ANOTHER band came parading thru!  This one reminded me if an alumni type band and HERE is the great thing, they stopped at the top of the plaza - The other band stopped and let them do their parade and pose for s group picture.  Thru then paraded away much to my amusement, I couldn't help it, i was laughing joyously with no signs of upset.  But wait, it gets better!  I finally make it to bed, lights off, earplugs almost in...  The school band comes parading back thru...  It was too much, we both started laughing and laughing at our nighttime lullaby.
Ah, that would be good enough, but there is more still!  11pm, thru the earplugs I hear BOOM!...... BOOM!...... BOOM! BOOM! BOOM!  Well I'm up, need to use the facility how, washing my hands I couldn't resist any longer, I opened the shutters over the sink and just watched the fireworks going off. Just laughing to myself with sheer joy, not a thread of anger, just joy.
Well, the towns bedtime antics were a prequel to as great nights sleep, washing up naturally at 5:59am to a 6:00am alarm...  That's the way to do it.
Find a little shop on town, the lady actually spoke better English then Spanish (she another to not being from Spain).  She freshly squeezed about 6 oranges into a frosted goblet, which I coupled with a real chocolate croissant...  Note, I don't know if it is the walking or what, but I have been LOVING orange juice lately, finding it very satisfying in many ways.  I think the best orange juice I have consumed on my life has been here, almost always fresh squeezed and very much sweeter and satisfying to the body - it really earns is nickname here of liquid sunshine.
With a great start to the day, we take off from Najera just energized and happy.  I noticeable aches and pains and high spirits.  We depart town and ascent a small hill, with the morning dawn we can see rain in the distance and the faint beginnings of a rainbow.  A rainbow that we first noticed around 8:00am and stayed with us clear thru Azofra and roll we stopped for lunch in Ciruena at 11:10.  The same rainbow that always seemed to arch over our ultimate destination in Santiago de Compostela.  As a group we were just in awe at such a long lasting and symbolic sight.  One of the group said that as a child he was told a rainbow is god's promise not to destroy the earth again.  I don't know about that, but I do know it was so uplifting, that I kept talking pictures to remind myself of its duration and brilliance.
That would make a great day in itself, but alas this day is a much longer story.  When people ask me how I first learned about the Camino, the assume it is from the movie "The Way" (which I love), but it is not true.  I first learned about it when Lee toured Franklin Pierce University.  You know where this is going now.  I'm walking along and come along a young gentleman, Luke.  We get taking and he says he is here with his school... Dead stop on the trail...  "May I ask what university?"...  " Franklin Pierce ". (OK, language filters temporarily overloaded here)... "No Fucking Shit!". We had a great conversation from there before parting to connect with out respective walking family (he is walking solo and has a group meetup spot in a few days).  My Camino walking family were happy and amazed to see the connection as to how I got started with Camino.
Lots more to go here, today is a big one.
So, a bit later I hear, "Is that you Kevin?", turning aroundI see it is Paul whom I did many training hikes with.  We traveled together they lunch and caught up on each other's Camino adventures.  He sadly has to do it in stages, and fears he will not get the same wholeistic gain as I am going for.
Lunch in Ciruena was at a golf country club who open their doors to Peregrinos gladly.  A large gathering a Camino Family around the table made for lots of joy as the days one and only rainstorm we had took place while we dined inside.
Back on the road, I was fully pumped full of energy and joy and was just bounding along at what must have been an incredible place because we got within sight of our destination, "Santo Domingo de Calzada', in no time flat!  The whole pilgrim train just seemed to be in high gear today and we collectively flew down the roads, everyone's spirits seemingly lifted as one.
We are starting at this wonderful place: "Public refuge of the Fraternity. This “pilgrims’ hotel” of the superlatives with elevator offers a posh accommodation to 211 pilgrims in 10 dormitories; very good kitchen, big common area, snoring room. In the yard of the refuge, the backup chicken crew recuperate, after performing their 14-day shift at the local cathedral" for €7.  Clean and well organized.  Happy pilgrims!
We even managed to score a pilgrim meal at 3:30 without having to wait till 7pm.  And guess what town has a little Chinese shop that seems extremely hard to get 2.3amp chargers?!?!?!  Yep, this little slice of heaven does and now u can use my phone on a charger and not watch the battery die.
OK, this is getting to a close soon.
Back at the albergue, Nancy finds out there is this international prayer service at 7am, attended by several members of my close Camino family and a few others.  The priest runs in late, snaps on the big overhead lights, days something about very busy, points to prayer sheets and flies out...  No one could figure out of her was coming back or not, so we took turns performing the service, each person reading a section in their closest native language.  English, French, and Italian prayers were spoken and upon completion we asked everyone if they were willing to share something that were happy about...  Universally everyone spoke how today was so uplifting and a Polish lady offered that today was a rebirth, which resounded positively with the small group.
So there you have it, a very long story on a day feeling like I was reborn.  I end my fat in Spain with earn feelings of safety and security for family and friends back at home and a feeling of certainty that alum will be well in the end for the many in need of prayers and support.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Navarrete to Najera

6:05am, up with no alarm.  On the trail by 6:45.  The one shop in town that opens at 6am for Peregrinos is pitch black putting us into a 8 km walk just to get breakfast.  Just outside of town, a car pulls up as the trail leaves the road, and a Spanish gentleman gets out and starts walking right besides us.  Turns out he speaks fluent English, can't to the states 3 separate times, and walks that section of the Camino every day.  A very pleasant conversation for several km before he turned around to return to his car.  After that we entered the next village and guess what the had in the bar?!?!  Fried eggs with bacon!  Ooh baby, two days in a row, the Gods must be happy with me.  Destroyed that plate and downed two orange juices.  Ooh yeah baby!
Funny how things work, that lifted my spirits quite a bit, buy as we returned to the trail, the thought entered my head, "I don't want to walk anymore."...  See, the breakfast lifted my spirits, but it reminded of all I have back at home...  So a double edged sword.  As I said before, I KNOW this week is emotionally tough, but that doesn't prevent the feelings.  Steadied with the knowledge that this is normal, I planted one foot in front of the other and walked right out of that town :).
Amazingly, I walked by a lady we had seen as a Peregrino and she was biking, but looking down.  We got talking about the emotions this week and she was so amazed to hear that she was not the only one.  As a point, we talked with many Peregrinos today and almost universally ask were struggling with emotions and alum were relieved to hear how normal this was.  It is amazing, knowing you are not alone gives you that energy to push thru the day :).
Also interesting, you know that feeling when you start something new, you are doing it, but you don't feel like you have earned the right yet to call yourself, In my case Peregrino, what you are doing?  Well that feeling solidly disappeared yesterday.  I ceased being a newbie Peregrino and became a full on Peregrino!  I executed my daily Peregrino routine without thought and just went about my Peregrino life.  That might play some into the feelings issue also, cause now there is no mental thought to my chores to keep me distracted, allowing me to think back to home and the things I miss, especially my family.
So, people reading this must think that av American in Spain, by himself, with these emotions would be a wreck, well not my experienced Camino friends, but uninitiated would.  However that is not the case, cause there is a Camino family here and while some people are on a Camino vacation, those "On Camino" are your Camino brothers and sisters and everyone helps everyone.
(OK, as I am writing this, i had to ask and look out the window to watch a high school band parade down the streets, just awesome - this country really likes any excuse for a parade!  Video should upload tonight I hope)
OK, back to that previous thought...
So you depart your start town and meet your first Camino family and many will become friends.  Sometimes your friends stretch away from you and other times they find you and photo-bomb your pictures of water fountains.  At any rate there are always people to talk to on Camino if you are willing and Camino brings out the best in humanity, and that is why when others think you are alone, you couldn't have more family save being back at your own home.

So, today's walk, after bacon and eggs just started getting harder, not that the trail was difficult, it wound thru vineyards mostly, but the body might be struggling likes the emotions, or the emotions are dragging the body down, either way, the 2nd half of the last leg was just a pain.  The knees were getting sore the get achy, etc.  I walk into Najera and am immediately overcome with "to much city" syndrome.  Luckily, the albergue is on they other side of the bridge, in a nicer area with a Riverside park advertised the street.  Tonight we didn't score down bunks, but a bunk in a separate room with this little terrace room looking out onto the park.  So, ever all I recovered nicely and even scored an early dinner!  Oh yeah experienced Peregrinos, I got dinner at 5pm!  No waiting for 7pmv or later for me today...  WOOT!
I have to say, it is a special treat when I wake up in the morning and get to hear from family and friends back home, gives me that push to get going on the next days adventure.  Speaking of that, by at least one guide I am 1/4 the rest thru!  HECK YEAH!  Once I get thru the emotional stage, I should be entering the meseta, the upper plains. Where I am told you either love it out hate it - Time will tell.

Well, this has rambled on long enough and its starting to approach bedtime.  This Peregrino is physically, mentally, and spiritually exhausted tonight - Throw at me what you must Mother Camino, this Peregrino doesn't quit anywhere near this easily.  Tomorrow I'll be back walking ever so closer to Santiago with every footstep!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

(I can still hear the band playing!)

PHOTO DUMP TIME!
SUNDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/VkLMb5vYJHkgJwqL9

MONDAY : https://goo.gl/photos/tJPciLLNwnFV23ZA7

TUESDAY :
https://goo.gl/photos/rGNRbKDv4PRq5yZz6

Viana to Navarrete.

Day 10 of walking:

So today started a little on the slow side compared to recent starts, but the albergue had a breakfast with note then toast. They actually had packages of mini muffins and cold cereal.

We struck out and soon entered the vineyards and just served to fly, arriving in Logrono around 10am and promptly were greeted by a pilgrim information center!  Like a tourist information center, only for pilgrims.  And a restroom with soap and hand dryer! - man they spoil pilgrims in that town!

We started across town following the trail and entered the church square, while taking a picture of the water spigot, is happily photo-bombed by Melanie for Alabama, who were hadn't seen since the day we left Roncesvalles.  We had a great chat and then we all continued out separate Caminos.  A short block later and the bit lace from my right boot caught in a latch on the left boot...  It was a most graceful forward fall, dampened with the hiking poles...  Camino injury, check (blisters are their own category).
Feeling very much the desire to be back on the remote Camino trails, we continued to march thru town, taking a detour to the Spanish post office, we found it closed.  Feeling emotionally stressed, I felt the need to get the hell out of Dodge...  Well until we walked past "The Drunken Duck"...  The restaurant that has:
One egg on toast
3 strips thick bacon
Pile of hash browns
A grilled hotdog, nicely cutup prior to grilling
And backed beans.
The English breakfast they called it. With cafe con leche all for €3.80!!!  I cannot even begin to describe how spiritually uplifting that was.

Back on the Camino, were were crossing a side street and this elderly Spanish lady saw us "Peregrinos! "...  Now I could pick out parts of what she said, but she gave us both hugs and kisses on the both cheeks.  She was saying something that we guessed was her pride in us walking to "Santiago!", She Obviously held Peregrinos in high regard.  My pack felt 10 pounds lighter (I checked, everything was where it should be :) ).

Later on, three elderly gentleman whistled and pointed the right was around a park.
Even later another Spanish elder exclaimed "Peregrino!", and blew a kiss.
Wow did that ever help give me a huge c emotional uplift, all the goodwill towards fellow man.

The trail leaving town is beautiful and runs for kilometers thru a parkway, by a park around what I assume is the public water supply (LOTS of large carp) and into another vineyard.  Leaving that we came to the fence bordering a highway for a while.  Here Peregrinos take sticks they pickup and weave crosses into the fence.  Thousands of crosses on this fence, and I certainly put mine there as well. The arrival in Navarrete was uneventful and our nightly accommodations are awesome.

Spent some time talking with family and went to the beautifully adorned church (the whole alter area is adorned with gold!) and used that time to pray for the well-being of many sick people know and love and for a recently deceased friend of my father-in-law.

An awesome assortment of spoon-tapas made an awesome dinner.  Later I learned that to order absenth it doesn't translate well into Spanish.  So you translate " Green liquorish liquor".  That makes a lightbulb go on, this tiny wine bottle looking thing comes up from a hidden drawer under the bar and given a gratis taste of "orujo de hierbas"...  Heaven in a glass!  Quick trip to the Pharmacia, which the bar owner called to make sure they were open for us, and I was back for a full shoot of "orujo de hierbas"...  Wow!  Not something you shoot, you sip this and enjoy...  Let says it makes you hallucinate, but I saw nothing out of the ordinary, just the albino pink elephants, she must have her facts crossed.

Just have to say, today the emotions are more prominent then before, my low was feeling the need to get out of the heavy population area, but at the same time they have me my high as well, as they demonstrated the best part of humanity.
The weather has been incredible, most days are 22c (kids 70s) with enough overcast you don't bake in the hot sun.

(photos are not fully backed up yet for today, bit here is yesterday's) https://goo.gl/photos/uSTf4qvF9k4GGi5h6

Beth Camino!
Kevin.

This is my Camino

This is my Camino.  There are many like it, but this one is mine.  It is my life.  I must master it as I must master my life....

I was thinking about that on and off and it seems oddly accurate as it seems to underscore my previous comments on how personal each Camino really is.  It also echoes the pride I have in conquering each obstacle mother Camino throws at me.

If Is common amongst people leaving home for various reasons, that the first week is physically challenging, the 2nd is emotionally challenging, and after that you even out.  This happens pretty much universally across military, people with
Jobs that take then away from home, and not to be left out, people on Camino.  The first week has certainly between physically demanding with Mother Camino dishing out punishment upon punishment.

Today started early, leaving at 6:30 and absolutely hammering out the trail to Torres Del Rio, all the while remembering the warning about has the second stage LOOKS easy, but in reality is a beater.  We stopped at a supermarkedo (a very tiny store), bought food for breakfast and lunch.  The owner was even nice enough to provide a banyos that had soap, water, and paper towels!!!  Three luxuries on the Camino fit sure.
So along the 2nd leg, getting my daily dose of mother Camino's punishing lessons, 1/2 way up a steep climb, I momentarily had a 2nd week emotional challenge.  Now it was fleeting as I am dedicated to this course, but also interesting in that it proves the earlier comments about separation.  For a fleeting moment, i was just done with the grueling treck.  Now's it was fleeting and I gathered myself, but it reminded me of why I am here.

We checked into Izol Albergue in Viana and did our regular pilgrim chores (sharing a room with only 17 other pilgrims, a quiet night) and was told to seek out g food earlier then later as there was some festival in town...
It is worth noting, the Spanish LOVE an excuse to party and this is "Fiestas de la Virgin de Nieve", celebrated in a small running of the bulls and followed up , not with a bull fight, just more of a pissing off of the bulls!  Entertaining without the killing and harm to the animal.  Seriously, it was as awesome as it sounds.  Mother Camino knew I was over the physical part and was entering the emotional phase and she handed me this city wide celebration and it was something I was quietly bumming that I would miss...  Had I fought my Camino, I would have missed this special treat.
I still missed my family, but my spirits are lifted from this treat.
As to how the Camino is changing me, no measurements are being taken, but I suspect new t-shirts in my future - with Camino designs to remind me of my journey and to keep the Camino alive when I return home.
This wraps up day 11 on Camino and my 9th day walking.  For those keeping score (which you shouldn't) this puts me on stage 7, but I listened to my body and the Camino and did two stages in parts and got a fabulous reward and hugh spirit lift.

Buen Camino!
Kevin

What the heck am I doing here!?

No, that is not me asking the question, but rather answering the many people back home.
Am I here for religious, spiritual, mental, physical, emotional, offer other reasons...   The answer is yes and no, the answer is either much more complicated or simpler, depending on your experience and outlook.
"I am on Camino" is the real honest answer, there is no other fitting answer.  Camino is all that and then a ton more.  On Camino you automatically belong to the Camino family, everyone "on Camino" is part of your Camino Family.  On Camino you give without expecting, share just because, help because someone needs it and when you need it, it is there.
I know many people try to achieve this in their lives, but there is this place, called "The Camino" where this has physically manifested itself and is more tangeable then a concept.
Case in point, trying to hit the highlights without excess detail.  Camino Ray and I reserve two single rooms at a hostela in Los Arcos, why, because the days walk was going to be hard, and we were not interested in a bed race.  We strike out at 6:20am in the pitch black and light rain (heavy enough to warrant wearing the rain poncho, now named the oven oven basting bag) and make the Irache wine fountain by 7:10 (with a breakfast stop along the way).  By headlamp enjoying a shot of terrible terrible wine, but it was free from a spigot on the outside of the building - Camino tradition, Check!  Anyways back to my long story, short version, getting long. I bought a shot glass from the bedding machine, for my shot, washed it in the water spigot, and passed it around, why not, I'm not going to carry that in my pack (wonder if it's still there?).  Later on, we stop in Azqueta for a break and snack (delicious fresh squeezed to order orange juice) and this pilgrim had lost her rain poncho and pack cover yesterday on the trail - gone.  She bought a cheap plastic poncho to get thru, but it was ripping.  Some duct tape from my pack and we bandaged it back into serviceable condition.  She was super grateful, but I reminded her that we are all Camino family, and she was my Camino sister and as such we look out for everyone.  Later on, Camino Ray and I, having over estimated the size of our Boccadillos, gladly shared then in out impromptu picnic spot along a 13km stretch of farmland.  Also sharing a bar dispenser can of pickles and bag of chips amongst our Camino family, some we meet before, others we just meet, most were may not see again - didn't matter, the sharing as a family happened, There in the middle of nowhere.  (OK, screw it, it is going to be a long story, sorry but I am going someplace with this).  So, fast forward to our arrival at out hostela and a hard time communicating, the hostel people bring us to our "double room", seeing a queen bed we inform the owner that no way are we sleeping in the same bed, were may be walking together, but that was a little to close.  We point to a bedroom with bunks and that is when the owner says " no, you get all the rooms "....   This is the Camino Magic here, we look around, he gave us his big suite with FOUR bedrooms!  A queen, try singles, and a bunk, for the price we would have paid for two singles!  " we full, special rate for Peregrinos! ".  Well, image he look on the young Canadian Peregrino who walked in behind us with no reservation when he was suddenly brought up to our suite and has his own room.  Camino Magic just oozing right there, and more so when we let the albergues in town know we had a bunk for tired Peregrinos, which was filled by two Canadian Peregrinos, desperate enough to check the police for a spot.
So, there you have and example of what happens DAILY on Camino, this Camino Magic pours out and there are Camino Angels EVERYWHERE.  Being here on Camino is like being part of the best of the best of humanity, and the more you give, the more you receive.
So, yeah, " I am on Camino " is the best way to describe my journey.

It's funny kinda, mother Camino is not kind, she beats the Peregrinos and done do not rise to the challenge and abandon Camino, mostly because they are not really ready for their Camino.  But the more she beats the stuffing out you, the more she cares for you as well.  Those on Camino for her lesson get it in good shape, but they get her love and caring also - as a mother does.  And one faulty lesson is, if you don't NEED something, doing bring it.  Over and over the lesson on simplification continues .

Well, that about does it for tonight.  I'm tired, doing know how tangling this really is and don't know what grammatical errors are plastered all around, but that is not going to stop me from going to bed.

Photo dump time (2 days):
https://goo.gl/photos/hyBQReFyrxPCLwxK7

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Yes, That gentleman is in his 80s, with a 23kg pack carrying his wife's burden as well - because that is his cross/burden...  Need inspiration, he's right there.

Maneru to Estelle

Struck out at 6:30 with headlamps on, flying by Cirauqui in short order, making tracks to Lorca and enjoying breakfast at 8:15, before the cook even arrived.  Couldn't argue with the FRESH squeezed orange juice, black tea, and Chocolate croissant all for €6.
Somewhere between there and Villatuerta I managed to pass Camino Ray who had such out ahead of me.  We reconnected on the way our of town and walked together to Estella with the intention of just stopping for lunch, but as we checked out the albergue situation, we did not feel comfortable risking a10km hike with so few accommodation choices and no reservations available.
Tonight is going to be interesting, we are staying in the municipal refuge in town, our room has 24+ beds in one large room - Ooh what a Camino tradition this is, don't think it's a treat, but for €6 it is what it is.  But hey, I have earplugs, and I'll be competing for loudest snorer in the room.

Now tomorrow is going to be something.  Start the day off in the city then head out to the Irache winery and their wine fountain for an early morning tasting.

So, in my solo walking times I have given to conversing with Mother Camino, feeling her that she can keep throwing obstacles at me, but I won't cave in, THIS Peregrino is going to the finish.

I can say, that every day, with every step, I feel better, stronger, and have have
more stamina.  The backaches i an working thru, looking at my belongings and figuring out if I am really using then or not, going to ship ahead to Santiago a bit and rearrange the pack.

Ooh, and I am apparently getting known as "a machine", cause I just won't quit!

Buen Camino!
Kevin

Zariquiegui to Maneru

Up at 5:30, on the trail with headlamp and poncho at 6:30, luckily it did not do much more then sprinkle and then dissipate.  Summited Alto de Perdon at 7:30 and let out a shout if pure joy that was heard back in the little village we started from (bringing much joy to those not yet started).  I cannot describe the joy of overcoming yet another obstacle mother Camino threw at me!
As I walked I was talking to myself telling the Camino that she was not going to get the best of me.  The one sided conversation got a little raw at times, but it drive me onwards.
The descent was terrible, with hard rains earlier this year washing out much of the trail and making the trail in worse shall then before - Many locals warning about it.  Camino Ray and I took out sweet time descending and burnt some trail once we got level ground.  Making it to Puente la Reina in time for early lunch, a Racione and Coca-Cola light for €4 which filled me...  Where else can you get something so delicious, with a beverage, for around $4.50 US?
Crossed the pilgrim bridge in Puente ls Reina with joy and satisfaction and made tracks, enjoying the little things one does not normally notice.  However Mother Camino had one more challenge at days end, a hard climb out of a valley.  Upon summiting we choose to call it a day at a sweet little Albergue in Maneru.
Some interesting observations, Camino really makes you think about all the little details in your day, bathroom with toilet seats are a luxury along with soap and especially paper towels.  All lights are on
Touch timers or motion activated.  The afternoon breeze gets chilly and it does it quick, so you makes sure your warm clothes is the first on the lines to dry.
Camino is definitely an experience that transcends just walking, the Spanish people live and care for Peregrinos and guide you back to the Camino if you are lost, even if you intend on it.  The best part of humanity is on display daily and even mother Camino, with her physical challenges, provides for the Peregrinos, not what they want, buy what they need.

Today's photo dump:
https://goo.gl/photos/1Pt38Tege578gkG66

Signing off for tonight,
Buen Camino!
Kevin