Friday, September 26, 2025

LEON!

There's a lot to go over so let's get started.
Lynne, Hwa, and I started the day of with breakfast at our hostel. After that we walked like only people that have been on the trail of over 3 weeks can walk... FAST!  For reference, people usually walk rate around 4 km an hour. We held a much higher Pace holding five and a half km an hour steady for the full 13 km to the next town. 
But during that walk, we came across and 80-year-old Italian gentleman who I would have sworn wasn't today 60!  In very broken languages we were able to discover that he was on his 30th Camino!

I FIGURED IT OUT, THE CAMINO IS THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH!!!

Later, we had quick and enjoyable breakfast and the three of us were back on the trail for the remaining 6 km to the next town which signified at the end of our mutual walking day.  On the way or of town we passed by a Camino institution - unfortunately not open yet for the day, Bar Elvis.  A place that openly supports graffiti both inside and out with a most unique proprietor.



Hwa is staying the night in Mancella de las Mulas, Lynne and I - following the advice of not only many guidebooks but pretty much everybody else, took transportation into Leon bypassing tomorrow's long slog into the city.

!!! CAMINO INTERMISSION !!!

https://youtu.be/s7vp9dnl0vg?si=iDPfcGkKPAaXhDA-

Leon is worth way more time than I'm going to give it, but I am taking one zero day tomorrow and maximizing every minute I have today. We were blessed with an Albergue literally just off the main cathedral square. A wonderfully modern Albergue with pod style beds in small security controlled rooms with climate control.  Linen sheets, comforter, TOWELS...  Seriously, this Albergue is going to spoil us now.

Charlton and I went on a short tapas bar crawl 



Seriously fun and good eats.  For those who don't know, you order a drink - You get a tapa!  You get up and scoot over to the next bar, rinse and repeat.
Later, for evening nibbles, Lynne joined us as we sought out the more rewarding tapas (not interested in bar mix, more Spanish tortillas, or a thin slice of sausage on a slab of bread - Bring on the good stuff.  For our final food item, the chocolate explosion.

During the late afternooni went into the Leon Cathedral and once again was welcomed by a Cathedral that was NOT there to worship the bishops and Cardinals like the Burgos cathedral.
The Leon Cathedral is beautiful, very airy and open.  It has not been expanded upon unnecessary time after time, it remains as built in a more pure state - actually, later modifications have been undone to restore the cathedral closer to it's original state. 

BURGOS : While architecturally beautiful is bit a house of worship, it is a museum and temple to the men who ruled the area. 

LEON : IS a house of worship and still active.

📊 Camino Intermission – Fri Sept 26, 2025

Day: 23

Stage walked: El Burgo Ranero → Mansilla de las Mulas (~19 km)
Then: Bus into León (not counted in walking total)
Cumulative walked: ~446 km
Remaining to Santiago (~770 km): ~324 km
% complete: ~58%
Avg so far: ~19.4 km/day
Needed avg to finish by Oct 13: ~19.4 km/day ✅

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🎭 Intermission Time
Tomorrow, Sat Sept 27th = rest day in León.
No kilometers. No pack. Just:
León Cathedral stained glass glow 🌈
Tapas in Barrio Húmedo & Romántico 🍷
Sweet treats (churros, ice cream) 🍫
Recharge body + mind before the mountains.

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🚩 The Play So Far

Act I: Body → aches, blisters, hills, broken in.

Act II: Mind → Meseta grind, halfway milestone, León reset.

Act III: Soul (coming soon) → Cruz de Ferro, Galicia’s green hills, Santiago.

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